Emulsion containing a dispersion of bismuth oxychloride

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in particular in the form of an emulsion for topical application to keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
         (i) at least one dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163) in an oily dispersant chosen from a) monoesters of formula R 1 COOR 2  in which R 1  represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and R 2  represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 16 to 26 carbon atoms; b) oils whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 , and mixtures thereof, and   (ii) at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having a refractive index greater than 1.42 and a solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, greater than 1 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 , silicone oils, in particular phenyl silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.       

     Applied to the skin, this composition imparts a luminous effect to the complexion.

The present invention relates to compositions for caring for and/ormaking up the skin, which are especially intended to impart luminosityor a light effect.

The terms “luminosity” or “light effect” are understood according to theinvention to mean the characteristic of light reflection, diffuse andcontinuous reflection over the skin. Indeed, the skin naturally reflectsa portion of the incident light. The “light effect” according to theinvention makes it possible to increase this reflection, which gives themakeup a more luminous and more radiant look. The compositions accordingto the invention may also impart a healthy glow effect.

The expression “healthy glow effect” is understood to mean a naturalcoloration of the skin, with an improvement in the dull appearance ofthe complexion (desaturating or chromatic and anti-dull complexioneffect).

The expression “composition for caring for and/or making up keratinmaterials” according to the invention is understood to mean compositionsdifferent from rinse-off cleansing compositions.

In particular, they will be compositions for caring for and/or making upthe skin of the face and/or of the body, especially facial skin.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the inventionwill comprise at least one colorant.

Consumers are in search of novel cosmetic products for improving theappearance of keratin materials and especially the skin, in particularthe surface appearance (visible and/or tactile unevenness) and/or theskin complexion, an external sign of a healthy glow, health and youth.

Furthermore, they are in search of novel cosmetic products that have afluid, fresh and fine texture combined with a care and/or makeup resultthat is fine, non-powdery, non-marking but nevertheless gives coverageand is luminous in order to minimize defects, in particular the surfaceappearance (visible and/or tactile unevenness), and impart luminosity tothe complexion, an external sign of a healthy glow, health and youth.

These fluid textures, especially sought after for oily skins and in hotcountries, are nevertheless more difficult to stabilize, especially whenthey contain a high proportion of water and of alcohols (for the fresheffect), combined with the presence of fillers and pigments (for thecoverage effect and the colour effect). This is even truer for W/Oemulsions, which are standard in the field of foundations.

Furthermore, these fresh formulas are advantageously lightly filled, inthe sense of containing little filler; however it is important thatthese formulas give coverage in order to mask defects (dyschromia, marksand unevenness of the skin). This is particularly true in Asia, in Japanwhere, while having to be fresh, light and fine, the textures mustprovide coverage. It is therefore important to provide in these formulasmaterials that can, without destabilizing and without thickening thesetextures, provide coverage and also luminosity.

Moreover, consumers are also in search of novel cosmetic products forimproving the appearance of keratin materials and especially the skin,in particular the surface appearance (visible and/or tactile unevenness)and/or the skin complexion, an external sign of a healthy glow, healthand youth.

During the ageing process for example, the structure of the skin and itscutaneous functions change: the principal clinical signs of skin ageingare in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, whichincrease with age. A disorganization of the “grain” of the skin is alsoobserved, that is to say that the microrelief is less even and exhibitsan anisotropic character.

It is known practice to treat these signs of ageing using cosmetic ordermatological compositions containing active agents capable ofcombating ageing. These active agents act on wrinkles by eliminatingdead skin cells and by accelerating the cell renewal process. However,these active agents have the drawback of only being effective for thetreatment of wrinkles after a certain application time. However, it isincreasingly sought to obtain an immediate effect of the active agentsused.

Other known methods for camouflaging skin defects use compositionscontaining fillers known as “soft-focus” fillers as described inapplication EP-A-1 099 437, which, via an optical effect, reduce skindefects such as marks, wrinkles and fine lines.

However, the results obtained with these compositions are ofteninsufficient to effectively reduce or even mask the most pronouncedwrinkles. Moreover, the soft-focus effect is often impaired by thepresence of opaque fillers, or pigments, in the compositions.Furthermore, the solid particles such as fillers and pulverulentcolorants present in the skin makeup compositions have the drawback ofconcentrating in the wrinkles, in particular deep wrinkles, thusaccentuating the unevenness of the skin. The application of thesecompositions to particularly wrinkled skins (especially mature skins)result in a makeup effect that marks or reveals the wrinkles.

The inventors have furthermore studied the impact of visible light onthe skin: 5% of the radiation is directly reflected, reflecting theentire colour spectrum of the light: this is the surface radiance,whereas 95% penetrates into the skin, interacting with the epidermis andthe dermis, and 40% is rediffused at the surface: this is the lightinside the skin.

But when the skin quality is impaired (fatigue, dryness, ageing, etc.):

-   -   the surface radiance is minimized since the light is reflected        less well over an uneven relief,    -   the internal light loses the intensity of its radiation since it        is absorbed more, especially by melanin, in its blue components.

The use of fillers for imparting coverage and of pigments (includingTiO₂) which, for the latter, provide colour in addition to coverage, isknown from the prior art. They make it possible to adjust the visual“coverage” of the skin by the application of a composition (e.g.:foundation) containing said fillers/pigments and thus give consumers thepossibility:

-   -   of unifying the colour of the complexion, or even of enhancing        it when the woman (man) judges that her (his) natural skin tone        is not in keeping with the image that she (he) would like to        give herself (himself), the climate, the season, etc.; and/or    -   of correcting the defects that have bothered them for a long        time or that occur with advancing age and that she (he) wishes        to reduce or hide.

Unfortunately, these raw materials may mark the face by highlighting therelief and the microrelief of the face. This is an even greater shamesince age is a factor in accentuating this microrelief and it is notacceptable, for these consumers, to accentuate the latter with the samefoundation that they use to cover and colour their face.

Furthermore, these same raw materials also have the advantage ofproviding mattness to the face, but by doing so may give the complexiona dull appearance.

Therefore there remains the need to find novel care and/or makeupproducts, especially for the complexion, which give a luminous effect,without being shiny, which do not mark the relief while covering thedefects (dyschromia, marks) or which give a unified colour to the face,in particular a natural and unified colour to the face, advantageously ahealthy glow effect.

According to one alternative, or additionally, novel products are soughtin particular that have a fluid, fresh and fine texture combined with acare and/or makeup result that is fine, non-powdery, non-marking butnevertheless gives coverage and is luminous.

According to one alternative, or additionally, novel products are soughtthat make it possible to obtain a satisfactory camouflaging of skindefects, while retaining a natural and luminous appearance of thecomplexion, without being shiny.

The inventors have demonstrated that the use of a dispersion (otherwiseknown as a pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride in an ester or an oilwhose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6(J/cm³)^(1/2), in particular a dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuthoxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (INCI name: ethylhexylhydroxystearate), to date known in anhydrous varnish, gloss andeyeshadow compositions for its shiny effect, made it possible, byformulating in an emulsion intended for application to the skin, toimpart luminosity to the skin; the complexion thus regains the freshnessand radiance of youth.

Compared to the use of nacres or pigments of titanium dioxide typeconventionally used in the search for a covering and luminous effect,the effect obtained with the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride usedaccording to the invention is advantageously homogeneous, and has nosparkling spots.

The inventors have furthermore demonstrated that the use of a dispersion(pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride in an ester or an oil whosesolubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2), inparticular a dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (INCI name: ethylhexyl hydroxystearate),made it possible, by formulating in an emulsion intended for applicationto the skin and that contains a high proportion of water and ofalcohols, to impart luminosity to the skin and a fresh effect; thecomplexion thus regains the freshness and radiance of youth.

The inventors have also demonstrated that the use of a dispersion(pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride in an ester or an oil whosesolubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2), inparticular a dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (INCI name: ethylhexyl hydroxystearate),made it possible, by formulating with a soft-focus agent in acomposition intended for application to the skin, to mask skin defectsby imparting luminosity to the skin; the complexion thus regains thefreshness and radiance of youth.

And they have demonstrated that the use of the combination of apre-dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in an ester or an oil whosesolubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2), inparticular a pre-dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexylhydroxystearate (INCI name: ethylhexyl hydroxystearate), with aparticular colorant (especially a composite pigment as defined below),in a composition intended for application to the skin, made it possibleto impart light to the skin and to improve its surface radiance,advantageously with a healthy glow effect: the complexion is fresher,more luminous and more radiant.

The use of bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163) in powder or agglomerate formwas known in foundations as a filler intended to provide a certainsensoriality (soft feel). This compound was also able to provide asatiny, localized and discontinuous effect, which, in products such asfluids, compacts or even powders, may be perceived as a nacreous sheenand not the desired luminous look.

Application WO 2004/041234 furthermore describes lightening andwhitening anhydrous compositions comprising a Phyllanthus emblica (PE)extract and, as additive, bismuth oxychloride in the form of a powder ora dispersion in order to give the composition a dry and soft feel on theskin.

The dispersion form (Biron® Liquid Silver) is described in thisapplication, and is sold by the supplier Merck, as a raw material thatis highly lustrous and shiny, which are not properties that are desiredfor an application to facial skin, and especially for the complexion.When it is observed in the pure state, it is a very silvery andextremely shiny liquid, highly recommended by the supplier for uses incompositions of the gloss, varnish and eyeshadow type, but a prioriunsuitable for the expectations of a complexion makeup result.

Its use in rinse-off cleansing compositions is also known from patentU.S. Pat. No. 6,906,015.

However, we have demonstrated that the use of this dispersion(pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearatewas able to give care and/or makeup products, especially for thecomplexion, in particular of emulsion type, the ability to provide,after application/making up:

a) coverage,

b) and especially luminosity.

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in the form ofan emulsion for topical application to keratin materials, in particularthe skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

-   -   (i) at least one dispersion of bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163) in        an oily dispersant (an oil) chosen from a) monoesters of formula        R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents a linear or branched        hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms,        preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 7        to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched        hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms,        preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from        16 to 26 carbon atoms; b) polar oils whose solubility parameter        at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2), and mixtures        thereof, and    -   (ii) at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having        a refractive index greater than 1.42 and a solubility parameter        at 25° C., δa, greater than 1 (J/cm³)^(1/2), phenyl silicone        oils, and mixtures thereof.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing an emulsionaccording to the invention, characterized in that:

a) introduced into the fatty phase is a dispersion (pre-dispersion) ofbismuth oxychloride comprising 68% to 72% by weight of bismuthoxychloride in 28% to 32% by weight of 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate,relative to the total weight of the dispersion,

b) the aqueous phase is prepared separately,

c) the emulsion is produced with (vigorous) stirring and at roomtemperature, in particular by using a Rayneri mixer fitted with adeflocculator.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/ormaking up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratinmaterials, in particular to the skin, of a composition according to theinvention, for example in the form of a coat of composition or severallayers of composition applied to facial skin, used alone or incombination with another composition (two-step application), saidcomposition according to the invention being applied before and/or afterthe application of a care composition or of a makeup composition such asa foundation.

In particular, the application of said composition to the skin,especially facial skin, provides the latter with a luminous effect andcoverage.

The invention also targets the use of a dispersion (pre-dispersion) ofbismuth oxychloride in an oily dispersant as defined according to theinvention, in a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, as anagent for imparting a luminosity to the complexion.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according tothe invention comprises at least one aqueous phase forming from 30% to70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and atleast 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, ofat least one C₂-C₈ monoalcohol.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according tothe invention comprises at least one soft-focus agent as defined below.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises at least one colorant chosen from goniochromaticcolouring agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents,optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, andmixtures thereof.

The invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic composition in theform of an emulsion for topical application to keratin materials, inparticular the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) an aqueous phase forming 30% to 70% by weight relative to the totalweight of said composition,

(ii) at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition of at least one C₂ to C₈ monoalcohol, and

(iii) at least one dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride(CI 77163) in an oily dispersant (an oil) chosen from a) monoesters offormula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents a linear or branchedhydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferablyfrom 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 7 to 20 carbon atoms,and R₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, andpreferentially from 16 to 26 carbon atoms; b) polar oils whosesolubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2), andmixtures thereof.

Advantageously according to this embodiment, the composition alsocomprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having arefractive index greater than 1.42 and a solubility parameter at 25° C.,δa, greater than 1 (J/cm³)^(1/2), phenyl silicone oils, and mixturesthereof.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing an emulsionaccording to the invention, characterized in that:

a) introduced into the fatty phase is a dispersion of bismuthoxychloride comprising 68% to 72% by weight of bismuth oxychloride in28% to 32% by weight of 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, relative to thetotal weight of the dispersion,

b) the aqueous phase is prepared separately,

c) the emulsion is produced with (vigorous) stirring and at roomtemperature, in particular by using a Rayneri mixer fitted with adeflocculator, and

d) the C₂-C₈ monoalcohol is incorporated with (moderate) stirring.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/ormaking up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratinmaterials, in particular to the skin, of a composition according to theinvention, for example in the form of a coat of composition or severalcoats of composition applied to facial skin, used alone or incombination with another composition (two-step application), saidcomposition according to the invention being applied before and/or afterthe application of a care composition or of a makeup composition such asa foundation.

In particular, the application of said composition to the skin,especially facial skin, provides the latter with a luminous effect, goodcoverage and a fresh effect.

The invention also targets the use of a dispersion (pre-dispersion) ofbismuth oxychloride in an oily dispersant as defined according to theinvention, in a cosmetic composition according to the invention, as anagent for imparting a luminosity to the complexion.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for topicalapplication to keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, ina physiologically acceptable medium:

-   -   (i) at least one dispersion of bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163) in        an oily dispersant (an oil) chosen from a) monoesters of formula        R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents a linear or branched        hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms,        preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 7        to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched        hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms,        preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from        16 to 26 carbon atoms; b) polar oils whose solubility parameter        at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2), and mixtures        thereof, and    -   (ii) at least one soft-focus agent.

Advantageously according to this embodiment, the composition alsocomprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having arefractive index greater than 1.42 and a solubility parameter at 25° C.,δa, greater than 1 (J/cm³)^(1/2), phenyl silicone oils, and mixturesthereof.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/ormaking up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratinmaterials, in particular to the skin, of a composition according to theinvention, for example in the form of a coat of composition or severalcoats of composition applied to facial skin, used alone or incombination with another composition (two-step application), saidcomposition according to the invention being applied before and/or afterthe application of a care composition or of a makeup composition such asa foundation.

In particular, the application of said composition to the skin,especially facial skin, provides the latter with a luminous effect andcoverage.

Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for caringfor and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin,comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

-   -   (i) at least one colorant chosen from goniochromatic colouring        agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents,        optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite        pigments, and mixtures thereof; and    -   (ii) at least bismuth oxychloride dispersed in at least one oil        chosen from a) monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁        represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain        comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30        carbon atoms, and preferentially from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and        R₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from        3 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and        preferentially from 16 to 26 carbon atoms; b) polar oils whose        solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6        (J/cm³)^(1/2), and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously according to this embodiment, the composition alsocomprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having arefractive index greater than 1.42 and a solubility parameter at 25° C.,δa, greater than 1 (J/cm³)^(1/2), phenyl silicone oils, and mixturesthereof.

According to one particular embodiment, said colorant is chosen fromfluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments,composite pigments, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, said colorant ischosen from composite pigments as described below.

Preferably, said colorant is present in the composition in a contentranging from 0.001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of saidcomposition, in particular from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to thetotal weight of said composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride isdispersed in at least one oil chosen from castor oil and 2-ethylhexylhydroxystearate, more preferably 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate.

According to one particular and preferred embodiment, the compositionaccording to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention is a facial makeup composition, in particular a foundation ora complexion illuminator.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing a cosmeticcomposition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, inparticular the skin, comprising the addition, to a physiologicallyacceptable medium comprising (i) at least one colorant chosen fromgoniochromatic colouring agents, photochromic colouring agents,fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments,composite pigments, and mixtures thereof, (ii) at least one bismuthoxychloride in the form of a pre-dispersion in an oil chosen from a)monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents a linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms,preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 7 to 20carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chaincontaining from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbonatoms, and preferentially from 16 to 26 carbon atoms; b) polar oilswhose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6(J/cm³)^(1/2), and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, said composition according tothe invention also contains at least one additional ingredient chosenfrom a filler, an additional colorant and/or reflective material, andmixtures thereof.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/ormaking up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratinmaterials, in particular to the skin, of a composition according to theinvention. In particular, the application of said composition to theskin, especially facial skin, provides the latter with a luminous effectand a radiance of the skin with advantageously a healthy glow effect.

The application to keratin materials and facial skin in particular maybe carried out for example in the form of a coat of composition orseveral coats of composition applied to facial skin, used alone or incombination with another composition (two-step application), saidcomposition according to the invention being applied before and/or afterthe application of a care composition or of a makeup composition such asa foundation.

In particular, the application of said composition to the skin,especially facial skin, provides the latter with a luminous effect andradiance and advantageously a healthy glow effect.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the combination (i) ofat least one colorant chosen from goniochromatic colouring agents,photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents, optical brighteners,lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, and mixtures thereof and(ii) of at least bismuth oxychloride dispersed in at least one oilchosen from a) monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents alinear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentiallyfrom 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branchedhydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, preferablyfrom 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 16 to 26 carbonatoms; b) polar oils whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, isgreater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2), and mixtures thereof, for imparting aluminous effect to the skin and providing radiance.

In particular, the bismuth oxychloride (ii) is in the form of apre-dispersion in at least one oil as defined above.

Lastly, the invention relates to the combination comprising (i) at leastone titanium oxide/Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake first composite pigment andone titanium oxide/Red No. 28 Aluminium lake and D&C Red No. 7 secondcomposite pigment and (ii) at least bismuth oxychloride dispersed in atleast 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, able to be used in a cosmeticpreparation process or a cosmetic composition or a cosmetic treatmentmethod such as are defined in any one of the claims.

In particular, the bismuth oxychloride (ii) is in the form of apre-dispersion in at least one oil as defined above.

Dispersion of Bismuth Oxychloride

The bismuth oxychloride used for the preparation of a compositionaccording to the invention is dispersed in at least one oil as definedbelow (liquid mixture) and differs from conventional bismuth oxychloridein powder form.

Reference will thus be made to a ‘dispersion’ or ‘pre-dispersion’ ofbismuth oxychloride in an oil in order to define, according to theinvention, the raw material used in a process for preparing a cosmeticcomposition according to the invention.

Reference will be made to bismuth oxychloride ‘dispersed in at least oneoil’ as defined according to the invention or ‘mixture of bismuthoxychloride with said oil’, in order to define the raw material onceformulated into the composition of the invention.

The dispersion (otherwise known as a pre-dispersion) of bismuthoxychloride in an oily dispersant that is used according to theinvention comprises at least bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163) dispersed inan oil chosen from:

-   -   a) monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents a linear        or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40        carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and        preferentially from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a        branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon        atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially        from 16 to 26 carbon atoms; and    -   b) polar oils whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is        greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2).

The composition according to the invention thus comprises at leastbismuth oxychloride and at least one oil (oily dispersant) chosen from:

-   -   a) monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents a linear        or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40        carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and        preferentially from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a        branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon        atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially        from 16 to 26 carbon atoms; and    -   b) polar oils whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is        greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2).

a) Monoesters

As esters (or ester oils) used as a dispersant of bismuth oxychloride,mention may especially be made of monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in whichR₁ represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprisingfrom 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, andpreferentially from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branchedhydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, preferablyfrom 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 16 to 26 carbonatoms.

According to one particular embodiment, the dispersion of bismuthoxychloride comprises a monoester chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate;isocetyl octanoate; isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate,tridecyl isononanoate; hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate; isopropylmyristate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecylmyristate; isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isooctylpalmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isodecyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate,2-octyldecyl palmitate; isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexylhydroxystearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate;2-octyldodecyl erucate; and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, use will be made of an ester oil chosen from isodecylneopentanoate; isocetyl octanoate; isononyl isononanoate; isopropylisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate,isostearyl isostearate; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride comprises 2-ethylhexylhydroxystearate.

b) Polar Oils

According to another embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride is dispersed ina highly polar oil, otherwise known as a polar oil whose solubilityparameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar oil” means anoil whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is other than 0(J/cm³)^(1/2).

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in theHansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the articleby C. M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. PaintTechnol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

-   -   δ_(D) characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from        the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;    -   δ_(p) characterizes the Debye interaction forces between        permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between        induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;    -   δ_(h) characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as        hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and    -   δ_(a) is determined by the equation: δ_(a)=(δ_(p) ²+δ_(h)        ²)_(1/2).

The parameters δ_(p), δ_(h), δ_(D) and δ_(a) are expressed in(J/cm³)^(1/2).

As examples of polar oils whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, isgreater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2), mention may especially be made of thefollowing oils:

-   -   esters, such as triisodecyl trimellitate,        dioctyl(2-ethylhexyl)carbonate, caprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC),        polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate, triisoarachidyl citrate,        oxypropylenated (3 OP) myristyl diadipate, diethylhexyl adipate,        propylene glycol dipelargonate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate,        dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, triisostearyl        citrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl)trimellitate, glyceryl        triisononanoate, 2-octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, dicaprylyl        maleate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, caprylic/capric        triglyceride, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, pentaerythrityl        tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), triisocetyl citrate, diethylene glycol        diisononanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, tricaprylin, diisostearyl        malate, glyceryl triheptanoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate,        octyl hydroxystearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate glyceryl ether,        propylene glycol monoisostearate, isostearyl lactate,        polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, oxyethylenated (7 OE) glyceryl        triacetate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate,        glyceryl triacetate and polyglyceryl-2 isostearate;    -   plant oils such as castor oil;    -   oils comprising PEG or POE groups such as PPG-10 butanediol, PEG        (8 OE), PEG (6OE), PEG (4 OE).

According to one preferred embodiment, use will be made, as polar oilwith δ_(a)>6, of octyl hydroxystearate or 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate.

According to another particular embodiment, use will be made, as polaroil with δ_(a)>6, of castor oil.

According to one particular and preferred embodiment, the compositionaccording to the invention thus comprises, in a physiologicallyacceptable medium:

-   -   a. at least one aqueous phase forming from 30% to 70% by weight        relative to the total weight of said composition, and at least        5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,        of at least one C₂-C₈ monoalcohol; and    -   b. at least bismuth oxychloride dispersed in at least one oil        chosen from 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, or castor oil,        preferably 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate,    -   c. and advantageously at least one oil chosen from        hydrocarbon-based oils having a refractive index greater than        1.42 and a solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, greater than 1        (J/cm3)½, silicone oils, in particular phenyl silicone oils, and        mixtures thereof.

According to one particular and preferred embodiment, the compositionaccording to the invention thus comprises, in a physiologicallyacceptable medium:

-   -   a. at least one soft-focus agent; and    -   b. at least bismuth oxychloride dispersed in at least one oil        chosen from 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, or castor oil,        preferably 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate,    -   c. and advantageously at least one oil chosen from        hydrocarbon-based oils having a refractive index greater than        1.42 and a solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, greater than 1        (J/cm3)½, silicone oils, in particular phenyl silicone oils, and        mixtures thereof.

According to one particular and preferred embodiment, the compositionaccording to the invention thus comprises, in a physiologicallyacceptable medium:

-   -   a. at least one colorant chosen from goniochromatic colouring        agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents,        optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite        pigments, or at least one soft-focus agent, and mixtures        thereof; and    -   b. at least bismuth oxychloride dispersed in at least one oil        chosen from 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, or castor oil,        preferably 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate,    -   c. and advantageously at least one oil chosen from        hydrocarbon-based oils having a refractive index greater than        1.42 and a solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, greater than 1        (J/cm3)½, silicone oils, in particular phenyl silicone oils, and        mixtures thereof.

The bismuth oxychloride will generally be present in the dispersion(pre-dispersion) in the presence of the oily dispersant (oil), in acontent by weight ranging from 50% to 90%, especially from 60% to 80%,and better still from 65% to 75% by weight relative to the total weightof the dispersion. The oily dispersant will consequently be present inthe dispersion in a content ranging from 10% to 50% by weight, inparticular from 20% to 40% by weight, and better still from 25% to 35%by weight.

According to one particular embodiment, use is made of a dispersion(pre-dispersion) comprising bismuth oxychloride and an oily dispersantin a weight ratio ranging from 2 to 3.

According to one preferred embodiment, use is made of a dispersion(pre-dispersion) comprising 68% to 72% by weight of bismuth oxychloridein 28% to 32% by weight of 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, relative to thetotal weight of the dispersion, i.e. a bismuth oxychloride/oilydispersant weight ratio of greater than or equal to 2, preferably ofbetween 2 and 2.6.

Such a dispersion (pre-dispersion) is especially sold under the nameBiron® Liquid Silver by the company MERCK.

The dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride will be used in acontent of raw material ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferablyfrom 0.2% to 25%, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% and better still from1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said compositionaccording to the invention.

A composition according to the invention could thus comprise bismuthoxychloride in a content of raw material ranging from 0.035% to 21% byweight, preferably from 0.14% to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from0.35% to 14% by weight, and better still from 0.7% to 10.5% by weight ofactive material relative to the total weight of said composition with abismuth oxychloride/ethylhexyl hydroxystearate weight ratio ranging from2 to 3, preferably from 2 to 2.6.

According to one particular embodiment, the dispersion (pre-dispersion)of bismuth oxychloride will be used in a content of raw material rangingfrom 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weightrelative to the total weight of said composition according to theinvention.

In other words, the total content of bismuth oxychloride and ofassociated oil, as defined previously (oily dispersant), will range from0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relativeto the total weight of said composition according to the invention, inparticular with a bismuth oxychloride/oily dispersant (associated oil)weight ratio ranging from 2 to 3.

According to one particular embodiment, these values do not take intoaccount the contents of the optional additional oils present in thefinal composition.

The raw material content of the dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuthoxychloride will be able to be adjusted by a person skilled in the artaccording to whether or not the composition also contains colorants.

By way of example, when the composition according to the invention isnot coloured and is for example used as a care and/or makeup base, theraw material content of the dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuthoxychloride will generally range from 0.01% to 30%, especially from 0.1%to 30%, in particular from 1% to 30%, preferably from 2% to 20%, betterstill from 5% to 15% by weight of raw material relative to the totalweight of said composition according to the invention.

According to one preferred embodiment, when the composition according tothe invention is not coloured the raw material content of the dispersion(pre-dispersion) of bismuth oxychloride, in other words the totalcontent of bismuth oxychloride and of associated oil as definedpreviously, will generally range from 0.01% to 15%, preferably from 0.1%to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said compositionaccording to the invention, in particular with a bismuthoxychloride/oily dispersant (associated oil) weight ratio ranging from 2to 3.

And when the composition according to the invention is coloured, that isto say that it also comprises colorants (pigments, nacres, dyes), theraw material content of the dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuthoxychloride will generally range from 0.01% to 20%, especially from0.05% to 20%, preferably from 0.2% to 15%, better still from 0.5% to 10%by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of saidcomposition according to the invention.

According to one particular embodiment, when the composition accordingto the invention is coloured, that is to say that it also comprisescolorants (pigments, nacres, dyes) for example in a content ranging from0.01% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition,the raw material content of the dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuthoxychloride, in other words the total content of bismuth oxychloride andof associated oil as defined previously, will generally range from 0.05%to 12%, preferably from 1% to 11% by weight of raw material relative tothe total weight of said composition according to the invention. For alarger content of additional colorants, for example ranging from 8% to25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, the rawmaterial content of the dispersion (pre-dispersion) of bismuthoxychloride, in other words the total content of bismuth oxychloride andof associated oil as defined previously, will generally range from 1.2%to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 12% by weight relative to thetotal weight of said composition.

According to one particular embodiment, these values do not take intoaccount the contents of the optional additional oils present in thefinal composition.

Oil having a Refractive Index>1.42

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least onespecific oil, characterized by a refractive index greater than 1.42,especially greater than 1.43, preferably greater than 1.45 and morepreferably greater than 1.46.

Such an oil gives the composition according to the invention aluminosity or radiance effect after application to the skin.

The term “oil” means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at roomtemperature (20-25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.

The oil having a refractive index greater than 1.42 may be chosen frompolar hydrocarbon-based oils (δ_(a)>1), silicone oils, advantageouslyphenyl silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

Polar Hydrocarbon-Based Oils (δ_(a)>1) having a Refractive Index>1.42

Mention may especially be made of the following oils:

-   -   ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether and 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether        palmitate;    -   oils comprising PEG or POE groups such as oxypropylenated (3 OP)        myristyl diadipate, oxyethylenated (7 OE) glyceryl triacetate,        PEG (4 OE), PEG (6 OE), octyldodecyl PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer        dilinoleate and PEG (8 OE);    -   esters such as:    -   linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from        35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW=697        g/mol);    -   hydroxylated esters such as for example polyglyceryl-2        triisostearate (MW=965 g/mol), triisocetyl citrate (MW=864        g/mol), diisostearyl malate (MW=639 g/mol);    -   aromatic esters such as for example tridecyl trimellitate        (MW=757 g/mol);    -   C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters such as        those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and        especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW=1033.76 g/mol),        pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697 g/mol), glyceryl        triisostearate (MM=891 g/mol), glyceryl        tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW=1143 g/mol), pentaerythrityl        tetraisostearate (MW=1202 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2        tetraisostearate (MW=1232 g/mol) or pentaerythrityl        tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW=1538 g/mol);    -   a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one        triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) with an        aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic        acid, which is optionally unsaturated, for instance the succinic        acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold under the reference        Zenigloss by Zenitech;    -   esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula        HO—R¹—(—OCO—R²—COO—R¹—)_(h)—OH, in which:

R¹ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation ofdilinoleic diacid,

R² represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and

h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9,

especially the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl dioldimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade namesLusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

-   -   oils of plant origin such as for example sesame seed oil (MW=820        g/mol), arara oil, jojoba oil, pracaxi oil, virgin olive oil,        Limnanthes (meadowfoam) oil, sesame seed oil, Ximenia oil,        soybean oil, macadamia oil, castor oil;    -   vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the        vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or        manufactured by the company ISP (MW=7300 g/mol);    -   and mixtures thereof.

As an oil having a refractive index>1.42, mention may especially be madeof isodecyl neopentanoate.

As oils having a refractive index>1.43, mention may especially be madeof:

-   -   dicaprylyl ether;    -   esters such as glyceryl triacetate, 2-ethylhexyl        2-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, propylene glycol        dioctanoate, caprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC),        dioctyl(2-ethylhexyl)carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl        palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isodecyl isononanoate and        neopentyl glycol dicaprate;

and mixtures thereof.

As oils having a refractive index>1.44, mention may especially be madeof:

-   -   esters such as propylene glycol dipelargonate, isopropyl        isostearate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, diethylene glycol        diisononanoate, butyl stearate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, glyceryl        triheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate,        glyceryl trioctanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, diethylhexyl        adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, tricaprylin, caprylic/capric        triglyceride, dicaprylyl maleate, isostearyl isononanoate,        glyceryl triisononanoate and pentaerythrityl        tetra(2-ethylhexanoate);

and mixtures thereof.

As oils having a refractive index>1.45, mention may especially be madeof:

-   -   2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether palmitate;    -   esters such as isostearyl lactate, isostearyl palmitate,        octyldodecyl neodecanoate, isocetyl stearate, propylene glycol        monoisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecyl        stearate, octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl adipate, octyl        hydroxystearate, glyceryl triisostearate, octyldodecyl stearoyl        stearate, diisocetyl dodecanedioate, dipentaerythrityl        hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, 2-octyldodecyl hydroxystearate,        pentaerythrityl tetraoctyldodecanoate, triisostearyl citrate,        pentaerythrityl tetra(2-hexyldecanoate) and propylene glycol        diisostearate;    -   oxypropylenated (3 OP) myristyl diadipate, oxyethylenated (7 OE)        glyceryl triacetate and PEG (4 OE);

and mixtures thereof.

As oils having a refractive index>1.46, mention may especially be madeof:

-   -   esters such as tridecyltetradecanoin, isostearyl isostearate,        isofol-24 isostearate, triisocetyl citrate, diisopropyl dimer        dilinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyltetradecanoate,        diisostearyl malate, diisoarachidyl dodecanedioate, octyldodecyl        erucate, triisoarachidyl citrate, polyglyceryl-2        tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2        diisostearate, hexyldecyl myristoyl methylaminopropionate,        pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, trimethylolpropane        triisostearate, oleyl erucate, ditrimethylolpropane        tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, dioctyldodecyl        dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate,        polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethyl panthenol, sucrose        containing 6-8 soybean fatty chains, triisostearyl trilinoleate,        2-octyldodecyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl benzoate, isofol-12        trimellitate, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, the hydrogenated dimer        dilinoleyl/dimethylcarbonate copolymer, triisodecyl        trimellitate, tridecyl trimellitate,        tri(2-ethylhexyl)trimellitate, castor oil benzoate (ratio 1/1.5)        and dipropylene glycol dibenzoate;    -   plant oils such as arara oil, jojoba oil, pracaxi oil, virgin        olive oil, Limnanthes (meadowfoam) oil, sesame seed oil, Ximenia        oil, soybean oil, macadamia oil and castor oil;    -   oils comprising PEG or POE groups, such as PEG (6 OE),        octyldodecyl PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate and PEG (8        OE);    -   the PVP/hexadecene copolymer;

and mixtures thereof.

The hydrocarbon-based oil having a refractive index>1.42 may also be anoligomer of a triglyceride of hydroxylated fatty acid and of saturateddiacid.

Such an oligomer is obtained by reaction of a triglyceride ofhydroxylated fatty acid (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and of asaturated diacid.

According to the invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when thehydrocarbon-based chain from which it is constituted does not have anunsaturated group, i.e. a carbon-carbon double bond. The term “diacid”means a hydrocarbon-based compound comprising two —COOH carboxylfunctions. The diacid can be a single diacid or a mixture of severaldiacids.

Likewise, in the meaning of the invention, the oligomer can be a mixtureof several oligomers.

Among the saturated diacids that can be used, mention may be made ofsebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid,azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylicacid.

More particularly, the oligomer can be an oligoester whose monomers arerepresented by the following formulae (A) of triglyceride and (B) ofdiacid:

in which:R₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylenegroup comprising for example from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and R₂represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl groupcomprising for example from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;R₁ preferably represents a group —(CH₂)_(n)—, where n can vary from 1 to20 and especially from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12;R₂ preferably represents a group —(CH₂)_(m)CH₃, where m can vary from 0to 11 and especially from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9.

According to one embodiment, n=10 and m=5, and the group

represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (the majorcomponent of hydrogenated castor oil);

X₁ is a linear or branched alkylene group, for example a linear alkylenegroup —(CH₂)_(x)—, where x can vary from 1 to 30 and especially from 3to 15.

When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to 8.

The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer may vary between 3and 12.

The oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and of sebacic acid isespecially sold by the company CRODA under various names depending onthe degree of polymerization.

Among the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacicacid, the one with a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is availableunder the trade name “CROMADOL CWS-5” and the one with a degree ofpolymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name “CROMADOLCWS-10”, sold by Croda Japan K.K.

Mention may also be made of the oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil andsebacic acid sold under the name CRODABOND-CSA (MW=3500) by the companyCRODA.

Mention may also be made, as oil having a refractive index greater than1.42, of oils preferably having a high molar mass ranging from 650 to 10000 g/mol, and preferably between 750 and 7500 g/mol, chosen from:

-   -   lipophilic polymers such as:    -   polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (of molar mass or MM=965        g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MM=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500        (MM=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,    -   hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Panalane H-300 E sold or        manufactured by the company Amoco (MM=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000        sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MM=6000 g/mol) and        Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco        (MM=1000 g/mol),    -   polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10        (MM=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MM=9200 g/mol) sold or        manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,    -   vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the        vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or        manufactured by the company ISP (MM=7300 g/mol),    -   esters such as:    -   linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from        35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MM=697        g/mol);    -   hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate        (MM=965 g/mol),    -   aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MM=757 g/mol),    -   C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters, such as        those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039 and        especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MM=1033.76 g/mol),        pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MM=697 g/mol), glyceryl        triisostearate (MM=891 g/mol), glyceryl        tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MM=1143 g/mol), pentaerythrityl        tetraisostearate (MM=1202 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2        tetraisostearate (MM=1232 g/mol) or alternatively        pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MM=1538 g/mol),    -   a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one        triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) with an        aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic        acid, which is optionally unsaturated, for instance the succinic        acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold under the reference        Zenigloss by Zenitech;    -   esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula        HO—R¹—(—OCO—R²—COO—R¹—)_(h)—OH, in which:

R¹ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation ofdilinoleic diacid,

R² represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and

h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9,

especially the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl dioldimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade namesLusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®,

-   -   silicone oils such as phenyl silicones, for instance Belsil PDM        1000 from the company Wacker (MM=9000 g/mol),    -   oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (820 g/mol),    -   and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositioncomprises, as oil having a refractive index>1.42 or additional oil, atleast one silicone oil or silicone gum.

In particular, it will be a phenyl silicone oil.

Silicone Oils

According to a second embodiment, the compositions according to theinvention comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

The non-volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may bechosen from silicone oils with a viscosity at 25° C. of greater than orequal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9×10⁻⁶ m²/s) and less than 800 000 cSt,preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt and preferably between 100 and 500000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone may be measured according tostandard ASTM D-445.

Among these silicone oils, two types of oil may be distinguished,according to whether or not they contain phenyl.

Representative examples of these non-volatile linear silicone oils thatmay be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones;vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with optionallyfluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such ashydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

Thus, non-phenyl non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentionedinclude:

-   -   PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent        and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each        containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,    -   PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as        hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,    -   polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a        fluorinated group, such as        polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,    -   polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such        as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,    -   polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or        polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the inventioncontains at least one non-phenyl linear silicone oil.

The non-phenyl linear silicone oil may be chosen especially from thesilicones of formula:

in which:

R₁, R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radicalcontaining 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxylradical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxylradical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound.

As non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to theinvention, mention may be made of those for which:

-   -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p        and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the        product sold under the name SE30 by the company General        Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the        company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500        000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name        Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,    -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p        and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the        product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by        the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name        Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,    -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p        and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the        product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the        company Dow Corning,    -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X        represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the        viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name        Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

Silicone Gums

The silicone gum that may be used in the invention may be chosen fromsilicone gums with a viscosity at 25° C. of greater than 800 000centistokes (cSt), especially between 800 000 and 10 000 000 cSt,preferably between 1 000 000 and 5 000 000 cSt and preferably between 1000 000 and 2 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone may bemeasured according to standard ASTM D-445.

The molecular weight of the silicone gums is generally greater than 350000 g/mol, between 350 000 and 800 000 g/mol and preferably from 450 000to 700 000 g/mol.

The silicone gum may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula:

in which:

R₁, R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radicalcontaining 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxylradical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxylradical or an amine radical,

n and p being integers chosen such that the viscosity of the compound isgreater than 800 000 cSt.

As silicone gums that may be used according to the invention, mentionmay be made of those for which:

-   -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X        represents a methyl group, and n and p are such that the        molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol, such as the        product sold under the name Mirasil C-DPDM by the company        Bluestar;    -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X        represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the        molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol, such as the        product sold under the name SGM 36 by the company Dow Corning;    -   dimethicones of the (polydimethylsiloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane)        type, such as SE63 sold by GE Bayer Silicones,        poly(dimethylsiloxane)(diphenyl)(methylvinylsiloxane)        copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises atleast one phenyl silicone oil.

Phenyl Silicone Oils

The term “phenyl silicone” (also referred to as phenyl silicone oil)means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.

The phenyl silicone is preferably non-volatile. The term “non-volatile”refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature andatmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa)and better still less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes,trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates.

The silicone oil may correspond to the formula:

in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methylor a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the silicone oil comprises atleast three, for example at least four, at least five or at least six,phenyl groups.

According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to theformula:

in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methylor a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, said organopolysiloxanecomprises at least three, for example at least four or at least five,phenyl groups.

Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may beused.

Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl,tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes.

According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to theformula:

in which Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenylsilicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the referenceDow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyltrisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also beused.

According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to theformula:

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents—CH₂—CH(CH₃)(Ph).

According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to theformula:

in which —OR′ represents —O—SiMe₃, y is between 1 and 1000 and z isbetween 1 and 1000.

The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones offormula (VI) below:

in which:

-   -   R₁ to R₁₀, independently of each other, are saturated or        unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based        radicals,    -   m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between        0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the summ+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.Preferably, q is equal to 0.

The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones offormula (VII) below:

in which:

-   -   R1 to R6, independently of each other, are saturated or        unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based        radicals,    -   m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0        and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of each other, represent asaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₃₀ and especially C₁-C₁₂hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl orbutyl radical.

R1 to R6 may especially be identical, and may also be a methyl radical.

Preferably, the value m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 mayapply, in formula (VII).

A phenyl silicone oil of formula (VI) with a viscosity at 25° C. ofbetween 5 and 1500 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with aviscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.

As phenyl silicone oils of formula (VII), it is especially possible touse phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), theoil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyldimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDM1000 (1000 cSt),Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. Thevalues in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25° C.

The non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from the silicones offormula:

in which:

R₁, R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radicalcontaining 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxylradical or a vinyl radical,

n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecularweight of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/moland more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.

The refractive index of the phenyl silicone oil will bepreferably >1.42. Preferably, the index will be advantageously greaterthan 1.43, preferably greater than 1.45 and more preferably greater than1.46.

The hydrocarbon-based oil having a refractive index>1.42 and havingδ_(a)>1 and/or the phenyl silicone oil according to the invention ispresent in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% byweight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from0.5% to 30% by weight, and better still from 1% to 20% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

Galenic Form

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, especially ofemulsion type, which may be in the form of a composition for caring forand/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, or else inthe form of a sun protection composition.

It may then be in a colourless form, optionally containing cosmetic ordermatological active agents. It may then be used as a care or makeupbase for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

A composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colouredproduct for making up keratin materials, in particular for making upskin, such as a foundation in particular to be applied to the face orthe neck, a concealer, a complexion corrector, a tinted cream or a bodymakeup composition.

The composition according to the invention may be in various forms, inparticular in the form of an anhydrous composition, dispersion oremulsion, especially such as a water/oil or oil/water emulsion ormultiple emulsion.

A composition of the invention is preferably an emulsion, in particulara direct or inverse emulsion, or an anhydrous composition.

A dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.

An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such anemulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct(0/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O).

In the case of emulsions, inverse (W/O) emulsions are preferred.

An anhydrous composition is a composition containing less than 5% byweight of water, or even less than 2% of water, and is especially freeof water. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may especiallybe introduced by ingredients of the composition that may containresidual amounts thereof.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in theform of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion,or a multiple emulsion, preferably a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion.

The composition according to the invention may form a base composition,or a care and/or makeup composition, or a composition to be appliedunder or on top of another makeup and/or care composition, in smalltouches in order to unify the complexion.

In the case where the composition according to the invention is a careand/or makeup base, it will advantageously be unpigmented, allowing theuse in said base of a high content of dispersion (pre-dispersion) ofbismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate. This care and/ormakeup base may be applied to the whole of the face, before theapplication of a care composition and/or of a makeup composition.According to another embodiment, said care and/or makeup base will beused as touches of makeup before (underneath) of after (on top of) theapplication of a layer of a care or makeup composition (foundation).

According to one particular embodiment, said composition is applied intouches to the areas of the face exhibiting skin defects; thisapplication may take place before the subsequent application of afoundation or afterwards. According to another particular embodiment, itmay be applied around the eyes in order to illuminate the eye area orabove the lips, on the cupid's bow, to give a curved shape.

According to one particular embodiment, said composition is applied topeople with skin that has visible and/or tactile unevenness and/or aheterogeneity of the complexion.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, saidcomposition is applied to people with oily skin.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, saidcomposition is applied to people with aged skin or mature skin.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, saidcomposition is applied to people with Asiatic skin.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium

Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition according tothe invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote amedium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of theinvention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the natureof the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also tothe form in which the composition is to be packaged.

Aqueous Phase

A composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in acontent ranging from 0 to 80%, in particular from 1% to 80% by weight,in particular from 10% to 80% and more particularly from 20% to 60% byweight, in particular from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the inventioncomprises an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 10% to 80% and moreparticularly from 20% to 60% by weight, especially from 30% to 50% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase generally comprises water such as: a demineralizedwater, a water from a natural source, such as La Roche-Posay water, afloral water such as cornflower water and/or a spring water.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may alsocomprise at least one water-miscible, organic solvent.

The water-miscible, organic solvent(s) suitable for the invention may bechosen from C₁₋₈, and especially C₁₋₅, monoalcohols, especially ethanol,isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, polyols as described previously,and mixtures thereof.

A composition of the invention may also comprise at least one salt, forexample sodium chloride, magnesium chloride or magnesium sulphate.

A composition of the invention may comprise from 0.05% to 1.5%, inparticular from 0.1% to 1.0% and more particularly from 0.15% to 0.8% byweight of salts relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the aqueous phase forms at least30% by weight, in particular at least 45% by weight, or more than 50% byweight and especially more than 60% by weight of the total weight of thecomposition according to the invention. Preferably, the aqueous phase ispresent in the emulsion according to the invention in a content rangingfrom 30% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight,and better still from 50% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weightof the emulsion.

The composition may also comprise, in particular when the compositioncomprises an aqueous phase representing at least 30% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition, at least one lower C₂ to O₈monoalcohol.

The lower monoalcohols that are more particularly suitable for use inthe invention comprise from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, for instanceethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

Ethanol and isopropanol are thus very particularly suitable for theinvention, preferably ethanol.

As specified previously, this alcohol is present in a proportion of atleast 5%, in particular of at least 7%, especially in a proportion of atleast 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For reasons of comfort, a content of less than or equal to 20% by weightand especially less than or equal to 15% by weight of monoalcoholrelative to the total weight of the compositions according to theinvention will be favoured, in other words a content of less than orequal to 40% by weight and especially less than or equal to 30% byweight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of saidcompositions.

Thus, the monoalcohol may represent at least 10% by weight, or even 20%by weight and up to 40% by weight of the aqueous phase.

Liquid Fatty Phase

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention maycomprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase and especially atleast one oil as mentioned below.

The term “oil” means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at roomtemperature (20-25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.

A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in acontent ranging from 5% to 95%, in particular from 10% to 80%, inparticular from 15% to 70% and more particularly from 20% to 65% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositionsaccording to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, siliconeoils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile oil” meansan oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact withthe skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and at atmosphericpressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquidat room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, atroom temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapourpressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10⁻³ to 300 mmHg),preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), andpreferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-volatile oil”means an oil with a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” meansan oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least oneSi—O group.

The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorineatom.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogenand carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/orphosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile Oils

The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containingfrom 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C₈-C₁₅ branched alkanes (alsoknown as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and forexample the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETHYL®,volatile linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the volatile linear alkanesthat are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate rangingfrom 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm²/min, at room temperature (25° C.) andatmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.By way of example, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10),n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13) and n-tetradecane(C14), and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, thevolatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane,n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, thevolatile linear alkane(s) are chosen from n-undecane, n-dodecane,n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to onepreferred embodiment, the composition according to the inventioncomprises dodecane. According to another preferred embodiment, thecomposition according to the invention comprises tetradecane. Accordingto another preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixtures ofn-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2of patent application WO 2008/155059 by the company Cognis. Mention mayalso be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) such as thosesold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 andParafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.

Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, forinstance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those witha viscosity 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10⁻⁶ m²/s), and especially containingfrom 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms,these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containingfrom 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used inthe invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones withviscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl-octyltrisiloxane,hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane anddodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane orperfluoromethyl-cyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

Non-Volatile Oils

The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatilehydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentionedinclude:

-   -   hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,    -   hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl        esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate        and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto,        Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of        glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain        lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆ and especially from C₁₈ to C₃₆,        these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or        unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic        triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, millet oil,        barley oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea        butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil,        groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil,        broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot        oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut        oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil,        macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's Wort oil,        monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive        oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi        seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil,        pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil,        sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures        thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides,        such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those        sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company        Dynamit Nobel;    -   synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as        dicaprylyl ether;    -   synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula R₁COOR₂, in which        R₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing        from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based        chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40        carbon atoms provided that R₁+R₂≧10. The esters may be chosen        especially from alcohol fatty acid esters, for instance        cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as        isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate,        2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate,        hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl        hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl        laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl        neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid        esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl        isononanoate.    -   polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance        dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,    -   fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a        branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from        12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl        alcohol and oleyl alcohol;    -   C₁₂-C₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or        linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;    -   dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being        identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under        the name CETIOL CC® by Cognis; and    -   oils of high molar mass, in particular with a molar mass ranging        from about 400 to about 2000 g/mol and in particular from about        650 to about 1600 g/mol. As oils of high molar mass that may be        used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of        linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from        35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate,        hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate,        aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate, branched C₂₄-C₂₅        fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters, such as those described in        patent U.S. Pat. No. 6,491,927, and pentaerythritol esters, and        especially triisoarachidyl citrate, glyceryl triisostearate,        glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2        tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl        tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate; phenyl silicones, such as        Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MM=9000 g/mol),        non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs comprising        alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent and/or at the end of the        silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon        atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones,        phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,        diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and        2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl        trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt,        and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.

Surfactants

A composition according to the invention generally comprises at leastone surfactant, chosen especially from amphoteric, anionic, cationic andnonionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture.

The surfactants are generally present in the composition in a proportionthat may range, for example, from 0.3% to 20% by weight, in particularfrom 0.5% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 10% byweight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition.

Needless to say, the surfactant is chosen so as to effectively stabilizethe emulsions more particularly under consideration according to theinvention, namely of O/W, W/O or O/W/O type. This choice falls withinthe competence of a person skilled in the art.

Examples that may be mentioned for the O/W emulsions include nonionicsurfactants, and especially esters of polyols and of fatty acids with asaturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and theoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containingoxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl estersof C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; thepolyethylene glycol esters of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenatedderivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids, and theoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose oralkylglucose) esters of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenatedderivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C₈-C₂₄fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned includeglyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate)(CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixturesthereof.

Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially bementioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycolmonostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especiallypolyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) andpolyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate),and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the productcontaining glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the nameArlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glycerylstearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold underthe name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearateSE).

Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned inparticular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, forinstance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, forinstance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty estersof methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucosideand of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed esterof methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture(CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate); the ester ofmethylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoseisostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFAname: methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoester and diesterof methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucosesesquiisostearate); the mixture of the monoester and diester ofmethylglucoside and of stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucosesesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the nameGlucate SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or ofalkylglucose that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers ofa fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethyleneglycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acidcontaining about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methylglucose distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucam E-20distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of themixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acidcontaining about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under thename Glucamate SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product soldunder the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, andmixtures thereof.

Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrosepalmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned includepolyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such aspolyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or ofcetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol).Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFAname Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

Sugar ethers that may especially be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides,for example decylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the nameMydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the namePlantaren 2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under thename Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, forinstance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by the companySEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF;laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the namesPlantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel;cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare818/UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside optionally as amixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the nameMontanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-Care CG90 by thecompany Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the companyHenkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture ofarachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, soldunder the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethylglucoside,for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol andstearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov 82 by the company SEPPIC;and mixtures thereof.

For the W/O emulsions, hydrocarbon-based or silicone surfactants may beused.

According to one embodiment variant, hydrocarbon-based surfactants arepreferred.

Examples of hydrocarbon-based surfactants that may be mentioned includepolyester polyols, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold underthe reference Arlacel P 135 by the company Uniqema, and polyglyceryl-2dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference Dehymuls PGPH by thecompany Cognis.

Examples of silicone surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyldimethicone copolyols such as lauryl methicone copolyol sold under thename Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning andcetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the companyGoldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethiconecopolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by thecompany Goldschmidt.

One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto. The co-emulsifiermay be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkylesters. Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned includeglycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example the polyglyceryl-3diisostearate sold under the name Lameform TGI by the company Cognis,polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, such as the product sold under the nameIsolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such asthe product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitanglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

A crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane comprising at leastone oxyalkylene group, such as the products obtained according to theprocedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of document U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004 andthe examples of document U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, especially the productof Example 3 (synthetic example) of patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, andas sold under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin-Etsu, may also beused as surfactants for W/O emulsions.

Surfactants of the amphiphilic polymer type are also suitable for theinvention.

The term “amphiphilic polymer” is intended to mean any polymercomprising both a hydrophilic portion and a hydrophobic portion andhaving the property of forming a film separating two liquids ofdifferent polarity and thus making it possible to stabilizeliquid-liquid dispersions of direct, inverse or multiple type. Thesepolymers may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

Use may more particularly be made of acrylate/C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl acrylatecopolymers, such as the products sold under the names Pemulen TR1,Pemulen TR2 and Carbobol 1382 by the company Goodrich, or else blendsthereof. Use may also be made of the acrylate/steareth-20 itaconatecopolymers and acrylate/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymers sold under thenames Structure 2001 and Structure 3001 by the company National Starch.By way of terpolymers that can be used, mention may be made of theterpolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethylm-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol comprising40 OE (i.e. comprising 40 oxyethylenated groups), sold by the companyAmerchol under the names Viscophobe DB 1000 NP3-NP4.

Mention may also be made of crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid,of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) ether of stearylalcohol (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company AlliedColloids under the name Salcare SC 80.

The anionic polymers that can be used according to the invention are,for example, isophthalic acid or sulphoisophthalic acid polymers, and inparticular the copolymers of phthalate/sulphoisophthalate/glycol (forexample diethyleneglycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol) sold under thenames Eastman AQ polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) by thecompany Eastman Chemical.

According to one particular embodiment, a silicone surfactant, inparticular chosen from dimethicone copolyols, may be used.

Dimethicone Copolyol

The dimethicone copolyol according to the invention is anoxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane.

Dimethicone copolyols that may be used are those corresponding toformula (II) below:

in which:

-   R₁, R₂ and R₃, independently of each other, represent a C₁-C₆ alkyl    radical or a radical —CH₂)_(x)—(OCH₂CH₂)_(y)—(OCH₂CH₂CH₂)_(z)—OR₄,    at least one radical R₁, R₂ or R₃ not being an alkyl radical; R₄    being a hydrogen, a C₁-C₃ alkyl radical or a C₂-C₄ acyl radical;-   A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;-   B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; on condition that A and B are    not simultaneously equal to zero;-   x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;-   y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;-   z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compoundof formula (II), R₁═R₃=methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R₄ is in particular ahydrogen.

Examples of compounds of formula (II) that may be mentioned include thecompounds of formula (III):

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer rangingfrom 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

Examples of silicone compounds of formula (II) that may also bementioned include the compounds of formula (IV):HO—(OCH₂CH₂)_(y)—(CH₂)₃—[(CH₃)₂SiO]_(A′)—(CH₂)₃—(OCH₂CH₂)_(y)—OH  (IV)in which A′ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those sold under thenames DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company DowCorning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016 and KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds offormula (III) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

The dimethicone copolyol may be present in the emulsion according to theinvention in a content ranging from 1% to 6% by weight, preferablyranging from 1.5% to 4% by weight and preferentially ranging from 2% to3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

According to one preferred embodiment variant of the invention, theaforementioned dimethicone copolyol may be combined with at least oneα,ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone.

α,ω-Substituted Oxyalkylenated Silicone

In the text hereinbelow or hereinabove, the term “silicone” is intendedto denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, anyorganosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched orcrosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained bypolymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalizedsilanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units inwhich the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (≡Si—O—Si≡siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals beingdirectly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most commonhydrocarbon-based radicals are alkyl radicals, especially C₁-C₁₀ alkylradicals, and in particular methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals andaryl radicals and in particular phenyl radicals. They may for example besubstituted by C₁-C₄₀ ester or ether groups or C₇-C₆₀ aralkyl groups.

Thus, the α,ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone that can be usedaccording to the invention is an organosilicon polymer as defined above,having a linear structure, which is substituted at the two ends of themain chain by oxyalkylenated groups linked to the Si atoms by means of ahydrocarbon-based group.

Preferably, the α,ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone corresponds tothe general formula (I) below:

in which: R=—(CH₂)_(p)O—(C₂H₄O)_(x)(C₃H₆O)_(y)R¹where: R¹ represents H, CH₃ or CH₂CH₃;

-   -   p is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, x varies from 1 to 100, y        varies from 0 to 50;    -   it being possible for the units (C₂H₄O) and (C₃H₆O) to be        distributed randomly or in blocks;    -   the R2 radicals represent a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a phenyl        radical;    -   5≦m≦300,

Preferably, the α,ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone used accordingto the present invention corresponds to the general formula (I) forwhich all the R² radicals are methyl radicals, and:

-   p ranges from 2 to 4,-   x ranges from 3 to 100,-   m ranges from 50 to 200,

More preferably, the average molecular weight of R ranges from 800 to2600.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the C₂H₄O units relative to the C₃H₆Ounits ranges from 100/10 to 20/80. Advantageously, this ratio is around42/58.

More preferably, R¹ is the methyl group.

More preferably still, the emulsion according to the invention comprisesthe α,ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone of the following formula:

in which:

-   m=100,-   R═(CH₂)₃—O—(C₂H₄O)_(x)—(C₃H₆O)_(y)—CH₃, where x ranges from 3 to    100, y ranges from 1 to 50, the weight ratio of the number of C₂H₄O    to the number of C₃H₆O being around 42/58, the average molecular    weight of R ranging from 800 to 1000.

The α,ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone as defined above may be usedaccording to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 5% inparticular from 1% to 4% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 3%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the commercial products which may contain all or some of theα,ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicones that can be used according tothe invention as emulsifier, mention may especially be made of thosesold under the names Abil EM 97 by the company Goldschmidt, or else KF6009, X22-4350, X22-4349 or KF 6008 by the company Shin-Etsu.

In particular, it may be the cetyl dimethicone copolyol.

This silicone surfactant is advantageously present in a content rangingfrom 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of saidcomposition.

Gelling Agents

Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired toobtain, it is possible to incorporate one or more gelling agents into acomposition of the invention.

A gelling agent suitable for the invention may be hydrophilic, i.e.soluble or dispersible in the water.

These may especially be chosen from: modified or unmodified carboxyvinylpolymers, such as the Carbopols (CTFA name: carbomer) sold by thecompany Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as theproducts sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the companyGuardian; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, which are optionallycrosslinked and/or neutralized, such as thepoly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by the companyClariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammoniumpolyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPScopolymers, in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under thename Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C₁₃₋₁₄lsoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name:Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltauratecopolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, carobgum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives,carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystallinecellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose andhydroxypropyl cellulose; and mixtures thereof.

A gelling agent suitable for the invention may be lipophilic. Alipophilic gelling agent may be inorganic or organic.

As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may, for example, be made ofmodified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38from Rheox), hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride(CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name Bentone 38 CEby the company Rheox.

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of optionallymodified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C₁₀ to C₂₂ fatty acidammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified withdistearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as, for example, that soldunder the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example,partially or completely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes witha three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®,KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® and TrefilE-506C® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®,SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC Gel®, SR DMF 10 Gel® and SR DC 556 Gel® by thecompany Grant Industries, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GeneralElectric; block copolymers of “diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type, ofthe polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such asthose sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of thepolystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as those sold underthe name Kraton® by the company Shell Chemical Co, or else of thepolystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, blends of triblock andradical (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by thecompany Penreco under the name VersaGel® for instance the mixture ofbutylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and ofethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M5960).

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that may be used in a cosmeticcomposition of the invention, mention may also be made of esters ofdextrin and of a fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, in particularsuch as those sold under the name Rheopearl TL®, Rheopearl TL2-OR® orRheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour.

By way of lipophilic gelling agent suitable for the invention, mentionmay also be made of hydrogenated plant oils, such as hydrogenated castoroil.

By way of lipophilic gelling agent also suitable for the invention,mention may be made of fatty alcohols, in particular C₈ to C₂₆ fattyalcohols, and more particularly C₁₂ to C₂₂ fatty alcohols.

According to one embodiment, a fatty alcohol suitable for the inventionmay be selected from mysrityl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcoholand behenyl alcohol

By way of lipophilic gelling agent also suitable for the invention,mention may be made of fatty acid esters of glycerols, such as glycerylstearate.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may compriseat least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular selected frommodified hectorites.

Colorants

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least onecolorant, in particular a pulverulent colorant.

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention mayadvantageously incorporate at least one colorant selected from organicor inorganic colorants, in particular such as pigments or nacresconventionally used in cosmetic compositions, which may be fat-solubleor water-soluble, and mixtures thereof.

The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or coloured,inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueoussolution and are intended for colouring and/or opacifying the resultingfilm.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 40% byweight, especially from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 1%to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmeticcomposition.

As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may bemade of titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and alsozinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganeseviolet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mentionmay be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based oncochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, oralternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPPs) described in documentsEP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96/08537.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprisewater-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. The fat-soluble dyes are, forexample, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan brown, DCYellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. Thewater-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the inventioncomprises at least one particular colorant chosen from goniochromaticcolouring agents, photochromic colouring agents, fluorescent agents,optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments, composite pigments, andmixtures thereof.

Goniochromatic Colouring Agents

The term “goniochromatic colouring agent” denotes, within the meaning ofthe present invention, a colouring agent which makes it possible toobtain, when the composition containing it is spread over a support, acolour trajectory in the a*b* plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric spacethat corresponds to a variation Dh in the hue angle h of at least 20° C.when the angle of observation relative to the normal is varied between0° and 80°, for an incident light angle of 45°.

The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, frommultilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.

In the case of a multilayer structure, it may comprise, for example, atleast two layers, each layer, which may or may not be independent of theother layer(s), being made, for example, from at least one materialchosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF₂, CeF₃,ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO₂, Ge, Te, Fe₂O₃, Pt, Va, Al₂O₃, MgO, Y₂O₃, S₂O₃, SiO,HfO₂, ZrO₂, CeO₂, Nb₂O₅, Ta₂O₅, TiO₂, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn,MoS₂, cryolite, and alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.

The goniochromatic agents having multilayer structures are especiallythose described in the following documents: U.S. Pat. No. 3,438,796,EP-A-227 423, U.S. Pat. No. 5,135,812, EP-A-170 439, EP-A-341 002, U.S.Pat. No. 4,930,866, U.S. Pat. No. 5,641,719, EP-A-472 371, EP-A-395 410,EP-A-753 545, EP-A-768 343, EP-A-571 836, EP-A-708 154, EP-A-579 091,U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,586, U.S. Pat. No. 5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4225 031, WO 95/17479 (BASF) and DE-A-196 14 637. They are in the form offlakes, with a metallic colour.

The multilayer structures that can be used in the invention are, forexample, the following structures: Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al;Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Al; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; MoS₂/SiO₂/mica oxide/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/mica oxide/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃. Different colours are obtaineddepending on the thickness of the various layers. Thus, with theFe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ structure, the colour changes from greenishgold to reddish grey for SiO₂ layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to goldfor SiO₂ layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO₂ layersof 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO₂ layers of 430 to 440 nm.

As a result, the multilayer structure may be essentially inorganic ororganic. Different colours are obtained depending on the thickness ofeach of the various layers.

The goniochromatic pigments having a multilayer interfence structure areespecially those described in the following documents: U.S. Pat. No.3,438,796, EP-A-227 423, U.S. Pat. No. 5,135,812, EP-A-170 439, EP-A-341002, U.S. Pat. No. 4,930,866, U.S. Pat. No. 5,641,719, EP-A-472 371,EP-A-395 410, EP-A-753 545, EP-A-768 343, EP-A-571 836, EP-A-708 154,EP-A-579 091, U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,586, U.S. Pat. No. 5,364,467,WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4 225 031, WO 95/17479 (BASF), DE-A-196 14 637, andcombinations thereof. They are in the form of flakes, with a metalliccolour.

Preferably, the goniochromatic pigment having a multilayer interfencestructure according to the invention is chosen from the group formed bythe following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Infinite Colorsmanufactured or sold by the company Shiseido, Sicopearl Fantasticomanufactured or sold by the company BASF, Colorstream manufactured orsold by the company MERCK, Colorglitter manufactured or sold by thecompany 3M, Chromaflair manufactured or sold by the company FLEX, andXiraollic and Xirona manufactured or sold by the company MERCK, andmixtures thereof.

As goniochromatic agents with a multilayer structure mention may be madeof those sold under the name Sicopearl.

As regards the liquid crystal goniochromatic particles capable of beingused in the composition according to the invention, they may inparticular be based on a polymer obtainable by polymerizing a mixture ofmonomers comprising:

-   -   a) at least one first monomer A of formula (I) Y1-A1-M1-A2-Y2 in        which:    -   i) Y1 and Y2, which are identical or different, represent a        polymerizable group selected from acrylate or methacrylate        groups, an epoxy group or an isocyanate, hydroxyl, vinyl ether        (—O—CH═CH₂) or vinyl ester (—CO—O—CH═CH₂) group, and    -   ii) A1 and A2, which are identical or different, represent a        group of formula —CnH₂n-, in which n is an integer ranging from        0 to 20, it being possible for one or more methylene groups of        said —CnH₂n- group to be replaced by one or more oxygen atoms,        and    -   iii) M1 denotes a group of general formula (I′)        —R₁—X₁—R₂—X₂—R₃—X₃—R₄—, in which R₁, R₂, R₃ and R₄, which are        identical or different, denote a divalent group selected from        —O—, —COO—, —CONH—, —CO—, —S—, —C≡C—, —CH═CH—, —N═N—, and        —N═N(O)—, it being possible for —R₂—X₂—R₃— or —R₂—X₂— or        —R₂—X₂—R₃—X₃— also to be a single covalent bond, and X₁, X₂ and        X₃ are identical or different groups selected from the        1,4-phenylene group, the 1,4-cyclohexylene group, arylene or        heteroarylene groups having an aryl nucleus comprising from 6 to        10 atoms which are optionally substituted by B1 and/or B2 and/or        B3, said heteroarylene containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms        selected from the O, N and S atoms, or cycloalkylene groups        having from 3 to 10 carbon atoms which are optionally        substituted by —B1 and/or —B2 and/or —B3, —B1, —B2 and —B3,        which are identical or different, being selected from C₁-C₂₀        alkyl, C₁-C₂₀ alkoxy, C₁-C₂₀ alkylthio, (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl carbonyl,        (C₁-C₂₀)alkoxy carbonyl, (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl thiocarbonyl, —OH, —F,        —Cl, —Br, —I, —CN, —NO₂, formyl, acetyl, and alkyl, alkoxy or        alkylthio groups having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms which are        interrupted by one or more oxygen atom(s) or one or more sulphur        atom(s) or one or more ester group(s),

and

-   -   b) at least one chiral second monomer B of formula (II)        V1-A′1-W1-Z—W2-A′2-V2, in which:    -   i) V1 and V2, which are identical or different, denote a group        selected from an acrylate or methacrylate group, an epoxy group,        a vinyl ether or vinyl ester group, an isocyanate group, a        C₁-C₂₀ alkyl, a C₁-C₂₀ alkoxy, a C₁-C₂₀ alkylthio, a        (C₁-C₂₀)alkoxy carbonyl, a (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl thiocarbonyl, —OH, —F,        —Cl, —Br, —I, —CN, —NO₂, formyl, acetyl and alkyl, alkoxy or        alkylthio groups having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms which are        interrupted by one or more oxygen atom(s) or one or more sulphur        atom(s) or one or more ester (—CO—O—) group(s),

and at least V1 or V2 denotes a polymerizable group selected fromacrylate or methacrylate groups, an epoxy group or an isocyanate,hydroxyl, vinyl ether (—O—CH═CH₂) or vinyl ester (—CO—O—CH═CH₂) group,

-   -   ii) A′1 and A′2, which are identical or different, represent a        group of formula —C_(n)H_(2n)—, in which n is an integer ranging        from 0 to 20, it being possible for one or more methylene groups        of said C_(n)H_(2n) group to be replaced by one or more oxygen        atoms, and    -   iii) W1 and W2 denote a divalent group of general formula        R′₁—X′₁—R′₂—X′₂—R′₃— in which R′₁, R′₂ and R′₃, which are        identical or different, denote a divalent group selected from        —O—, —COO—, —CONH—, —CO—, —S—, —C≡C—, —CH═CH—, —N═N— and        —N═N(O)—, and R′₁, R′₂, R′₃ or R′₂—X′₂ can also be a single        covalent bond, and X′₁ and X′₂ are identical or different groups        selected from the 1,4-phenylene group, the 1,4-cyclohexylene        group, arylene or heteroarylene groups having an aryl nucleus        comprising from 6 to 10 atoms which are optionally substituted        by B′1 and/or B′2 and/or B′3, said heteroarylene containing from        1 to 3 heteroatoms selected from the O, N and S atoms, or        cycloalkylene groups having from 3 to 10 carbon atoms which are        optionally substituted by —B′1 and/or —B′2 and/or —B′3, —B′1,        —B′2, and —B′3, which are identical or different, being selected        from C₁-C₂₀ alkyl, C₁-C₂₀ alkoxy, C₁-C₂₀ alkylthio,        (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl carbonyl, (C₁-C₂₀)alkoxy carbonyl, (C₁-C₂₀)alkyl        thiocarbonyl, —OH, —F, —Cl, —Br, —I, —CN, —NO₂, formyl, acetyl,        and alkyl, alkoxy or alkylthio groups having from 1 to 20 carbon        atoms which are interrupted by one or more oxygen atom(s) or one        or more sulphur atom(s) or one or more ester group(s),

and Z denotes a chiral divalent group comprising at least 4 carbonatoms, in particular from 4 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably from4 to 10 carbon atoms (the chiral divalent group comprising at least oneasymmetric carbon, especially one or two asymmetric carbons and inparticular two asymmetric carbons), and in particular a chiral divalentgroup originating from the group of the dianhydrohexites, hexoses,pentoses, binaphthyl derivatives (binaphthyl groups), biphenylderivatives (biphenyl groups), tartaric acid derivatives or glycolswhich are optically active.

Preferably, the particles of liquid crystal polymer have a larger sizeranging from 1 μm to 3 mm, and preferably ranging from 30 μm to 500 μm.These particles are advantageously in the form of flakes.

Such polymers and their particles are disclosed in application EP-A-1046 692.

Use may be made in particular, as particles of liquid crystal polymer,of those known under the CTFA name Polyacrylate-4 and sold under thenames Helicone® HC Sapphire, Helicone® HC Scarabeus, Helicone® HC Jade,Helicone® HC Maple, Helicone® HC XL Sapphire, Helicone® HC XL Scarabeus,Helicone® HC XL Jade and Helicone® HC XL Maple by Wacker.

Photochromic Colouring Agents

A photochromic colouring agent is an agent which has the property ofchanging colour when it is lit by ultraviolet light and of regaining itsinitial colour when it is no longer lit by this light, or else ofpassing from an uncoloured state to a coloured state, and vice versa. Inparticular this agent exhibits different colours depending on whether itis lit with natural light or artificial light.

The photochromic agents that can be used in the invention are, inparticular, those described in documents JP-A-09/165532, EP-A-709 728,JP-A-07/258580, JP-A-07/223816, EP-A-624 553, JP-A-08/337422,JP-A-07/025617 and EP-A-359 909.

More specifically the photochromic colouring agents that can be used inthe invention are spirooxazines and derivatives thereof such asspiroindolinonaphthooxazines, spironaphthoxazines, naphthopyran and itsderivatives, spiropyrans, such as indolinospirobenzopyrans,nitrobenzylpyridines, spirolans, titanium oxide or zinc oxide doped withiron. By way of example mention may be made of photochromic agents ofthe type derived from naphthopyran, sold by the company PPG under thereferences Photosol 5-68 Photochromic Dye, Photosol 7-49 PhotochromicDye, Photosol 7-106 Photochromic Dye, Photosol 0265 Photochromic Dye,Photosol 0272 Photochromic Dye, these agents exhibiting two differentcolours depending on whether they are excited or not by UV rays. Use mayalso be made of doped aluminosilicates, doped in particular with thegroups S, Se, SO₄ ²⁻, WO₄ ²⁻ or OH, or else with metal ions, especiallyFe, Cr, Mn, Co or Ni ions, such as those described in applicationEP-A-847 751.

Fluorescent Agents (or Substances)

Fluorescent agents are well known to those skilled in the art. They maybe pigments or dyes. The term “pigments” is understood to mean inorganicor organic particles that are insoluble in the composition. The term“dye” is understood to mean chemical compounds dissolved in thecomposition. The dyes may be water-soluble or fat-soluble. Fluorescentsubstances are, for example, described in “Luminescent materials(fluorescent daylight)”, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology,Kirk-Othmer, vol. 14, pp. 546-569, 3rd edition, 1981, Wiley.

For the purposes of the present invention a fluorescent agent is asubstance which, under the effect of ultraviolet rays and/or of visiblelight, re-emits in the visible range the portion of light which it hasabsorbed under the same colour as that which it reflects naturally. Thenaturally reflected colour is thus reinforced by the re-emitted colourand appears extremely bright.

As fluorescent agent use may be made of inorganic fluorescent substancessuch as those described in application JP 05-117127 and, in particular,inorganic fluorescent substances based on zinc oxide.

As fluorescent agents it is also possible to use organic fluorescentsubstances such as daylight-fluorescent pigments; these pigments aregenerally manufactured from fluorescent dyes, which are dissolvedbeforehand in a support resin to give a solid solution, which issubsequently ground to a powder of resin particles exhibitingfluorescent properties. The preparation of such fluorescent pigments isdescribed in EP 0 370 470, U.S. Pat. No. 2,851,424, U.S. Pat. No.3,711,604, U.S. Pat. No. 3,856,550 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,938,878.

Fluorescent pigments particularly suitable for the present invention maythus be selected from coloured polyamide and/orformaldehyde/benzoguanamine and/or melamine/formaldehyde/sulphonamideresins, from coloured aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulphonamideco-condensates and/or from metallized polyester flakes and/or mixturesthereof. These fluorescent pigments may also be present in the form ofaqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments.

As fluorescent pigments particularly suitable for the present inventionmention may be made of the pink-coloured fluorescentaminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulphonamide co-condensate with a meanparticle size of 3-4 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta AstralPink FEX-1 and the blue-coloured fluorescentaminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulphonamide co-condensate with a meanparticle size of 3-4.5 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta CometBlue FTX-60 by the company Swada, or alternatively the yellow-colouredbenzoguanamine/formaldehyde resin covered with formaldehyde/urea resinsold under the trade name FB-205 Yellow and the red-colouredbenzoguanamine/formaldehyde resin covered with formaldehyde/urea resinsold under the trade name FB-400 Orange Red by the company UK SeungChemical, and the orange-coloured polyamide resin sold under the tradename Flare 911 Orange 4 by the company Sterling Industrial Colors.

Optical Brighteners

The fluorescent agents may also be selected from optical brighteners,which are white organic fluorescent substances.

Optical brighteners are compounds that are well known to those skilledin the art. Such compounds are described in “Fluorescent WhiteningAgent, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer”, vol. 11, pp.227-241, 4th Edition, 1994, Wiley.

They may be defined more particularly as compounds that absorbessentially in the UVA range between 300 and 390 nm and re-emitessentially between 400 and 525 nm.

Their lightening effect resides more particularly in an emission ofenergy of between 400 and 480 nm, which corresponds to an emission inthe blue part of the visible region, which contributes to lightening theskin visually when this emission takes place on the skin.

Optical brighteners that are especially known include stilbenederivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinylstilbenes,coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins,oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives,pyrene derivatives, porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Such compounds are widespread in commerce. They include in particularthe following derivatives:

-   -   the stilbene derivative of naphthotriazole, sold under the trade        name Tinopal GS, the disodium 4,4′-distyrylbiphenylsulphonate        (CTFA name: disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulphonate) sold under        the trade name Tinopal CBS-X, the cationic aminocoumarin        derivative sold under the trade name Tinopal SWN CONC., the        sodium 4,4′-bis[(4,6        dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2′-disulphonate        sold under the trade name Tinopal SOP, the        4,4′-bis[(4-anilino-6-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2′-disulphonic        acid sold under the trade name Tinopal UNPA-GX, the        4,4′-bis[(anilino-6-morpholine-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene        sold under the trade name Tinopal AMS-GX, and the disodium        4,4′-bis[(4-anilino-6-(2-hydroxyethyl)methylamino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2′-sulphonate        sold under the trade name Tinopal 5BM-GX, all by the company        CIBA Specialty Chemicals;    -   the 2,5-thiophenediylbis(5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole) sold        under the trade name Uvitex OB by the company CIBA;    -   the anionic derivative of diaminostilbene in dispersion in        water, sold under the trade name Leucophor BSB liquide by the        company Clariant; and    -   mixtures thereof.

The optical brighteners that can be used in the present invention mayalso be in the form of copolymers, for example of acrylates and/ormethacrylates, grafted with optical brightener groups as described inapplication FR 99/10942.

Organic Lakes

The organic lakes may be chosen, in a known manner, from insolublesodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium ortitanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid,xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes. Thesedyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group.

The organic lakes may also be supported by any compatible support suchas a mineral support, for instance particles of alumina, of clay, ofzirconia or of metal oxides, in particular of zinc oxide or of titaniumoxide, of talc, of calcium carbonate or of barium sulphate. Preferably,the mineral support is chosen from alumina, titanium oxide and bariumsulphate.

Among the organic lakes, mention may in particular be made of thoseknown under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C RedNo. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake,D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&CRed No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 9Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 10Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium lake,D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminium lake, D&C RedNo. 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium/Titanium/Zirconium lake, D&CRed No. 27 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 27Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&CRed No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 34Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 36 lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, D&CBlue No. 1 Aluminium lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C OrangeNo. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 17Barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconiumlake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake,D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminium lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, FD&CRed No. 4 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, FD&C YellowNo. 5 Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake, and mixturesthereof.

The chemical compounds corresponding to each of the organic pigmentscited previously are mentioned in the publication “InternationalCosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 1997 edition, pages 371 to386 and 524 to 528, published by “The Cosmetic, Toiletry and FragranceAssociation”, the content of which is incorporated into the presentapplication by way of reference.

Organic Pigments

Mention may especially be made of the organic pigments of azo dyes,anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinolinedyes, triphenylmethane dyes and fluorane dyes.

Among the organic pigments that may especially be mentioned are thoseknown under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&CGreen No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&COrange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C RedNo. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28,D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C RedNo. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C YellowNo. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C RedNo. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Black 2 (carbon black)and phthalocyanine blue, and mixtures thereof.

Composite Pigments

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition ofthe invention contains, as particular colorant associated with thebismuth oxychloride dispersed in at least one specific oil as definedabove, at least one composite pigment as described below.

Structure

A composite pigment according to the invention may be composed, inparticular, of particles comprising:

-   -   an inorganic core,    -   at least one, at least partial, coating of at least one organic        colorant.

At least one binder may advantageously contribute to the attachment ofthe organic colorant to the inorganic core. This binder mayadvantageously act without the formation of covalent bonds.

The composite pigment particles may have varied forms. These particlesmay especially be in platelet or globular, in particular spherical, formand may be hollow or solid. The term “in platelet form” denotesparticles having a ratio of the largest dimension to the thickness ofgreater than or equal to 5.

A composite pigment according to the invention can, for example, have aspecific surface area of between 1 and 1000 m²/g, especially between 10and 600 m²/g approximately and in particular between 20 and 400 m²/gapproximately. The specific surface area is the value measured by theBET method.

Inorganic Core

The inorganic core can be of any form suitable for the attachment ofparticles of organic colorant, for example spherical, globular,granular, polyhedral, acicular, spindle-shaped, flattened in the fleck,rice grain or flake form, and a combination of these forms, this listnot being limiting.

Preferably, the ratio of the largest dimension of the core to itssmallest dimension is between 1 and 50.

The inorganic core may have an average size of between approximately 5nm and approximately 100 nm, or even between approximately 5 nm andapproximately 75 nm, for example between approximately 10 nm andapproximately 50 nm, especially around 20 or 25 nm.

The term “average size” denotes the dimension given by statisticalparticle size distribution for half the population, referred to as D50.The average size may be a number-average size determined by imageanalysis (electron microscopy).

The inorganic core may be made of a material chosen from thenon-limiting list comprising metal salts and metal oxides, in particulartitanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron, ferric blue, aluminium andchromium oxides, aluminas, glasses, ceramics, graphite, silicas,silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, syntheticmica, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the inorganic core of said composite pigment comprises ametal oxide chosen from a titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron,ferric blue, chromium and aluminium oxide, in particular a titaniumoxide.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the inorganiccore is a titanium oxide.

Titanium oxides, especially TiO₂, iron oxides, especially Fe₂O₃, ceriumoxides, zinc oxides, aluminium oxides or silicates, especiallyaluminosilicates and borosilicates, are very particularly suitable.

The inorganic core may have a specific surface area, measured by the BETmethod, of, for example, between approximately 1 m²/g and approximately1000 m²/g, better still between approximately 10 m²/g and approximately600 m²/g, for example between approximately 20 m²/g and approximately400 m²/g.

The specific surface area is for example between 30 and 70 m²/g, forexample close to 50 m²/g, in particular in the case of TiO₂ cores havinga size close to 20 or 25 nm.

The inorganic core can be coloured, if appropriate.

The refractive index of the inorganic core is advantageously greaterthan or equal to 2, or even greater than or equal to 2.1 or 2.2.

The weight proportion of the inorganic core within the composite pigmentmay exceed 50%, being, for example, between 50% and 70%, or 50% and 60%.

Organic Colorant

The organic colorant may be chosen, for example, from particulatecompounds that are insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium ofthe composition.

The organic colorant may comprise, for example, organic pigments thatmay be chosen from the compounds below, and mixtures thereof:

-   -   cochineal carmine,    -   organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene,        pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes,    -   organic lakes or insoluble organic sodium, potassium, calcium,        barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of        acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene,        pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes        possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid        group.

Among the organic pigments that may especially be mentioned are thoseknown under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&CGreen No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&COrange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C RedNo. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28,D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C RedNo. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C YellowNo. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C RedNo. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Black 2 (carbon black)and phthalocyanine blue, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, use is made of the organicpigment D&C Red No. 7.

According to another embodiment, use is made of the organic pigment D&CRed No. 28.

According to another particular embodiment, use is made of the organicpigment FD&C Yellow No. 5.

The organic colorant may comprise an organic lake supported on anorganic support such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.

Among the organic lakes that may be mentioned in particular are thoseknown under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C RedNo. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake,D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&CRed No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 9Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 10Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium lake,D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminium lake, D&C RedNo. 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium/Titanium/Zirconium lake, D&CRed No. 27 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 27Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&CRed No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 34Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 36 lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, D&CBlue No. 1 Aluminium lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C OrangeNo. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 17Barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconiumlake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake,D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminium lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, FD&CRed No. 4 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, FD&C YellowNo. 5 Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake, and mixturesthereof.

According to one particular embodiment, use is made of the organic lakeFD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake or D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake.

According to another particular embodiment, use is made of the organiclake D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium lake.

According to another embodiment, use is made of the organic lake FD&CYellow No. 5 Aluminium lake.

The chemical compounds corresponding to each of the organic colorantscited previously are mentioned in the publication “InternationalCosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 1997 edition, pages 371 to386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry and FragranceAssociation, the content of which is incorporated into the presentpatent application by reference.

The weight proportion of organic colorant may be between around 10 partsand around 500 parts by weight per 100 parts of the inorganic core, oreven between around 20 parts and around 250 parts by weight, for examplebetween around 40 parts and around 125 parts by weight per 100 parts ofthe inorganic core.

In certain exemplary embodiments, the total organic colorant content ofthe composition is less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The organic colorant represents, for example, between 30% and 50% byweight of the composite pigment relative to the total weight thereof,for example between 30% and 40%.

Binder

The binder may be of any type, provided that it allows the organiccolorant to adhere to the surface of the inorganic core.

According to one particular and preferred embodiment, the binder isorganic.

The binder may especially be chosen from a non-limiting list comprisingsilicone compounds, polymeric, oligomeric or similar compounds, and inparticular from organosilanes, fluoroalkylated organosilanes andpolysiloxanes, for example polymethylhydrosiloxane, and various couplingagents, such as coupling agents based on silanes, on titanates, onaluminates or on zirconates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organic binder is chosen from silicone compounds.

The silicone compound may be chosen from a non-limiting list comprisingin particular:

-   -   organosilanes (1) obtained from alkoxysilanes,    -   modified or unmodified polysiloxanes (2) chosen from a        non-limiting list comprising:    -   modified polysiloxanes (2A) comprising at least one radical        chosen from, in particular, polyethers, polyesters and epoxy        compounds (they will be referred to as “modified        polysiloxanes”),    -   polysiloxanes (2B) bearing, on a silicon atom located at the end        of the polymer, at least one group chosen from a non-limiting        list comprising carboxylic acids, alcohols or hydroxyl groups,        and    -   fluoroalkylated organosilane compounds (3) obtained from        fluoroalkylsilanes.

The organosilane compounds (1) may be obtained from alkoxysilanecompounds represented by the formula (I):R¹ _(a)SiX_(4-a)  (I)in which:

-   -   R¹ represents C₆H₅—, (CH₃)₂CH—CH₂— or a radical of        C_(b)H_(2b+1)— type (where b varies from 1 to 18),    -   X represents CH₃O— or C₂H₅O—, and    -   a varies from 0 to 3.

Specific examples of alkoxysilane compounds may include thealkoxysilanes chosen from: methyltriethoxysilane,dimethyldiethoxysilane, phenyltriethyoxysilane, diphenyldiethoxysilane,methyltrimethoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxysilane,diphenyldimethoxysilane, isobutyltrimethoxysilane, decyltrimethoxysilaneand the like, in particular from methyltriethoxysilane,phenyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane,isobutyltrimethoxysilane, and better still methyltriethoxysilane,methyltrimethoxysilane and phenyltriethoxysilane.

The polysiloxanes (2) may especially correspond to the formula (II):

in which R² represents H— or CH₃— and d varies from 15 to 450.

Among these polysiloxanes, those for which R² represents H arepreferred.

The modified polysiloxanes (2A) may especially correspond to thefollowing formulae:

-   -   (a¹) modified polysiloxanes bearing polyethers, represented by        formula (III):

in which R³ represents —(CH₂)_(h)—; R⁴ represents —(CH₂)_(i)—CH₃; R⁵represents —OH, —COOH, —CH═CH₂, —C(CH₃)═CH₂ or —(CH₂)_(j)—CH₃; R⁶represents —(CH₂)_(k)—CH₃; g and h varying independently from 1 to 15; jand k varying independently from 0 to 15; e varying from 1 to 50 and fvarying from 1 to 300,

-   -   (a²) modified polysiloxanes bearing polyesters, represented by        formula (IV):

in which R⁷, R⁶ and R⁹ independently represent —(CH₂)_(q)—; R¹⁰represents —OH; —COOH, —CH═CH₂, —C(CH₃)═CH₂ or —(CH₂)₁CH₃; R¹¹represents —(CH₂)_(s)—CH₃; n and q varying independently from 1 to 15, rand s varying independently from 0 to 15; e varying from 1 to 50 and fvarying from 1 to 300,

-   -   (a³) modified polysiloxanes bearing epoxy radicals represented        by formula (V):

in which R¹² represents —(CH₂)_(v)—; v varying from 1 to 15; t varyingfrom 1 to 50 and u varying from 1 to 300; or mixtures thereof.

Among the modified polysiloxanes (2A), the modified polysiloxanesbearing polyethers of formula (III) are preferred.

The polysiloxanes modified on the terminal part (2B) may correspond toformula (VI):

in which R¹³ and R¹⁴ may represent —OH, R¹⁶—OH or R¹⁷—COOH,independently of one another; R¹⁵ represents —CH₃ or —C₆H₅; R¹⁶ and R¹⁷represent —(CH₂)_(y)—; y varying from 1 to 15; w varying from 1 to 200and x varying from 0 to 100.

Among these polysiloxanes modified at at least one end, those bearing atleast radical (R¹⁶ and/or R¹⁷) bearing a carboxylic acid group on atleast one terminal silicon atom are more preferred.

The fluoroalkylated organosilane compounds (3) may be obtained fromfluoroalkylsilanes represented by formula (VII):CF₃(CF₂)_(z)CH₂CH₂(R¹⁸)_(a)SiX_(4-a)  (VII)in which:

-   -   R¹⁵ represents CH₃—, C₂H₅—, CH₃O— or C₂H₅O—,    -   X represents CH₃O— or C₂H_(S)O—,    -   Z varies from 0 to 15 and a varies from 0 to 3.

The fluoroalkylsilanes may especially be chosen from a non-limiting listcomprising, in particular, trifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane,tridecafluorooctyltrimethoxysilane,heptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane,heptadecafluorodecylmethyldimethoxysilane,trifluoropropyltriethoxysilane, tridecafluorooctyltriethoxysilane,heptadecafluorodecyltriethoxysilane,heptadecafluorodecylmethyldiethoxysilane and the like, in particulartrifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane, tridecafluorooctyltrimethoxysilane andheptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane, and better stilltrifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane and tridecafluorooctyltrimethoxysilane.

The silane-based coupling agents may be chosen from a non-limiting listespecially comprising vinyltrimethoxysilane, vinyltriethoxysilane,γ-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, γ-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane,γ-mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane, γ-methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane,N-β-(aminoethyl)-γ-aminopropyltrimethoxysilane,γ-glycidoxypropylmethyldimethoxysilane andγ-chloropropyltrimethoxysilane, and the like.

The titanate-based coupling agents may be chosen from the listcomprising isopropylstearoyl titanate,isopropyltris(dioctylpyrophosphate)titanate,isopropyltris(N-aminoethylaminoethyl)titanate,tetraoctylbis(ditridecylphosphate)titanate,tetrakis(2,2-diaryloxymethyl-1-butyl)bis(ditridecyl)phosphate titanate,bis(dioctylpyrophosphate)oxyacetate titanate andbis(dioctylpyrophosphate)ethylene titanate, and the like.

The aluminate-based coupling agents may be chosen fromacetoalkoxyaluminium diisopropylate, aluminiumdiisopropoxymonoethylacetoacetate, aluminium tris(ethylacetoacetate) andaluminium tris(acetylacetonate), and the like.

The zirconate-based coupling agents may be chosen from a list especiallycomprising zirconium tetrakis(acetylacetonate), zirconiumdibutoxybis(acetylacetonate), zirconium tetrakis(ethylacetoacetate),zirconium tributoxymonoethylacetoacetate and zirconiumtributoxyacetylacetonate, and the like.

The compounds used as binder may especially have a molar mass that mayrange between 300 and 100 000.

In order to obtain a layer that covers the inorganic cores uniformly,the binder is preferably in a form that is liquid or soluble in water orin various solvents.

According to one particular embodiment, the organic binder is apolymethylhydrosiloxane.

The amount of binder may range from 0.01% to 15%, especially from 0.02%to 12.5% and in particular from 0.03% to 10% by weight (calculatedrelative to C or Si) relative to the weight of the particles comprisingthe core and the binder. For further details regarding the way ofcalculating the relative amount of the binder, reference may be made topatent application EP 1 184 426 A2.

The relative weight proportion of binder may be less than or equal to5%, or even to 3%, relative to the total weight of the compositepigment.

Preparation of the Composite Pigment

The composite pigment may be prepared by any suitable process, forexample a mechanicochemical process or a solution precipitation process,with dissolution of an organic colorant substance and precipitation atits surface of the core.

The composite pigment may be made, for example, via one of the processesdescribed in European patent applications EP 1 184 426 and EP 1 217 046,the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference,advantageously via the process described in patent application EP 1 184426.

In one exemplary embodiment, the particles intended to form theinorganic core are first of all mixed with the binder.

So that the binder adheres uniformly to the surface of the inorganiccore, it is preferable to first pass these particles into a mill inorder to break them up.

The mixing and stirring conditions are chosen so that the core isuniformly covered with binder. These conditions may be controlled sothat the linear load is between 19.6 and 19 160 N/cm, in particularbetween 98 and 14 170 N/cm and better still between 147 and 980 N/cm;the treatment time is especially between 5 min and 24 hours and betterstill from 10 min to 20 hours; the rotational speed may be between 2 and1000 rpm, in particular between 5 and 1000 rpm and better still between10 and 800 rpm.

After the binder has covered the inorganic core, the organic colorant isadded and mixed, with stirring, in order to adhere to the layer ofbinder.

The methods of addition may be, for example, an addition in largeamount, continuously or in small amount.

The mixing and the stirring, whether of the inorganic cores with thebinder or of the organic colorant with the binder-covered inorganiccores, may be carried out using a machine that makes it possible toapply a spatular and/or compressive shearing force to the powdermixture. Such machines are, for example, gear mixers, blade mixers, andthe like. Gear mixers are very particularly suitable. A list of machinesthat may be suitable is given in patent application EP 1 184 426 A2.

Another method of manufacturing a composite pigment is described inpatent JP 3286463, which discloses a solution precipitation process.

The organic colorant is dissolved in ethanol, the inorganic cores arethen dispersed in this ethanolic solution.

Next, added slowly to these mixtures is an alkaline aqueous solution ofsodium or potassium carbonate, then lastly, an ethanolic solution ofcalcium chloride is slowly added, the whole process being carried outwith stirring.

According to one particular embodiment, the composite pigment is chosenfrom composite pigments comprising:

-   -   an inorganic core comprising a titanium oxide,    -   advantageously a silicone binder, and    -   at least one, at least partial, coating of at least one organic        colorant chosen from lakes.

As examples of composite pigments that can be used according to theinvention, alone or as a mixture, mention may especially be made of:

-   -   titanium dioxide (CI77891), blue lake FD&C Blue Aluminium lake        (CI42090) and polymethylhydrosiloxane (58.1/40.7/1.2);    -   titanium dioxide (CI77891), D&C Red No. 7 (CI15850) and        polymethylhydrosiloxane (65.8/32.9/1.3);    -   titanium dioxide (CI77891), D&C Red No. 28 (CI45410) and        polymethylhydrosiloxane (65.8/32.9/1.3);    -   titanium dioxide (CI77891), yellow lake FD&C Yellow 5 Aluminium        lake (CI191140) and polymethylhydrosiloxane (65.8/32.9/1.3);    -   titanium dioxide (CI77891), D&C Red No. 7 and D&C Red No. 28        Aluminium lake (CI15850 and CI45410) and        polymethylhydrosiloxane.

According to one particular embodiment, the composite pigment is chosenfrom composite pigments comprising:

-   -   an inorganic core comprising a titanium oxide,    -   advantageously a silicone binder, and    -   at least one, at least partial, coating of at least one organic        colorant chosen from lakes, in particular those with the name        D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake,        FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake,        Red No. 28 Aluminium lake, or organic pigments, in particular        those with the name D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 28, and mixtures        thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises a composite pigment. By way of example, use is madeof the composite pigment comprising titanium dioxide (CI77891), bluelake FD&C Blue Aluminium lake (CI42090) and polymethylhydrosiloxane(58.1/40.7/1.2).

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition ofthe invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

-   -   at least two composite pigments that are different due to the        nature of the organic colorant of the coating, and    -   at least bismuth oxychloride dispersed in at least one oil        chosen from monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents        a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4        to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and        preferentially from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a        branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon        atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferentially        from 16 to 26 carbon atoms; and polar oils whose solubility        parameter at 25° C., δa, is greater than 6 (J/cm³)^(1/2).

Advantageously, the two composite pigments comprise organic colorantshaving different colours respectively in order to provide the skin witha multiple colour effect.

In particular, said composition comprises:

-   -   (i) at least one first composite pigment comprising titanium        dioxide, a blue lake, and advantageously a silicone binder, and    -   (ii) at least one second composite pigment comprising titanium        dioxide, a red organic pigment and a red organic lake, and        advantageously a silicone binder, and    -   (iii) at least bismuth oxychloride dispersed in at least one oil        as defined previously, in particular 2-ethylhexyl        hydroxystearate.

According to one preferred embodiment, use is made of a first titaniumoxide/Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake composite pigment and a second titaniumoxide/Red No. 28 Aluminium lake and D&C Red No. 7 composite pigment.

This particular combination of composite pigments makes it possible toimpart a natural and fresh radiance with a natural colour effect to theskin on which the composition of the invention is applied, in additionto the light effect provided by the pre-dispersion of bismuthoxychloride described previously.

The particular colorant(s) described previously, chosen fromgoniochromatic colouring agents, photochromic colouring agents,fluorescent agents, optical brighteners, lakes, organic pigments,composite pigments, and mixtures thereof, is (are) present in saidcomposition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Advantageously, for a raw material content of a mixture of bismuthoxychloride and of an oil as defined previously, and in particular of2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight of rawmaterial, relative to the total weight of said composition, use will bemade of a content of a particular colorant, and in particular ofcomposite pigment(s), ranging from 0.001% to 2%, preferentially from0.01% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another embodiment, for a raw material content of a mixtureof bismuth oxychloride and of an oil as defined previously, and inparticular of 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ranging from 8% to 15% byweight of raw material, relative to the total weight of saidcomposition, use will be made of a content of a particular colorant, andin particular of composite pigment(s), ranging from 0.1% to 3%,preferentially from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weightof said composition.

In particular, the weight ratio (A)/(B) between (A) the mixture ofbismuth oxychloride and of oil as defined previously and (B) thematerial with an optical effect, will be greater than or equal to 1, inparticular will range from 2 to 15 000, especially from 3 to 500, inparticular from 5 to 100, or even from 10 to 50, and better still from15 to 30.

Advantageously, the composition will also be able to comprise at leastone additional colorant and/or reflective material, different from theparticular colorant described previously, and bismuth oxychloridedispersed in a specific oil.

The term “reflective materials” denotes, within the meaning of thepresent invention, particles whose size, structure, especially thethickness of the layer(s) of which they are constituted and theirphysical and chemical natures, and the surface appearance, enable themto reflect incident light with a sufficient intensity to be able tocreate at the surface of the composition claimed, when the latter isapplied to the support to be made up, points of brightness that arevisible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminous points that contrast withtheir surroundings by appearing to shine.

The reflective particles may disrupt the visual perception of thecurvature of the made-up support, by tending to prevent lasting visualfocusing, the points of brightness being liable to appear or disappearat random when the made-up support and the observer are moving.

Said additional colorant may be chosen from organic or inorganiccolorants, especially such as the inorganic pigments or nacresconventionally used in cosmetic compositions, particles with metallicglints, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Theadditional reflective material may be chosen from particles with ametallic glint.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will adjust the choice ofthe additional colorants and/or reflective materials and the respectivecontents thereof as a function of the desired effect without adverselyaffecting the luminous effect and the radiance provided by thecombination described above.

These additional colorants and/or reflective materials, when they arepresent, are in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight,preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and especially from 1% to 10% byweight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or coloured,inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueoussolution and are intended for colouring and/or opacifying the resultingfilm.

As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may bemade of titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and alsozinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganeseviolet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

It may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, ofsericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigmentis sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by thecompany Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the regionof 30. Mention may also be made of the structures of pigments ofBaSO₄/TiO₂/FeSO₃ type under the reference SILSEEM from Nihon Koken andof silica/iron oxide type XIRONA Le Rouge from Merck.

The colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure which maybe, for example, of the type such as silica microspheres containing ironoxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product soldby the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, thispigment being constituted of silica microspheres containing yellow ironoxide.

The term “nacres” should be understood as meaning iridescent ornon-iridescent coloured particles of any form, especially produced bycertain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which havea colour effect via optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium micacoated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuthoxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium micacoated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuthoxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which aresuperposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or oforganic colorants.

Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural micacoated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment orwith bismuth oxychloride.

Among the commercially available nacres, mention may be made of theTimica, Flamenco and Duochrome (mica-based) nacres sold by the companyBASF, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestigemica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart, the following nacres basedon natural mica: Sunpearl from the company Sun Chemical, KTZ from thecompany Kobo and Sunprizma from the company Sun Chemical, the Sunshineand Sunprizma nacres based on synthetic mica sold by the company SunChemical, and the Timiron Synwhite nacres based on synthetic mica soldby the company MERCK.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze,orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of thepresent invention, mention may be made of gold-coloured nacres soldespecially by the company BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G(Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504(Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres soldespecially by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384)(Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF underthe name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially bythe company BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange(Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted nacressold especially by the company BASF under the names Nuantique copper340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with acopper tint sold especially by the company BASF under the name Copper340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the companyMerck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with ayellow tint sold especially by the company BASF under the name Yellow(4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted nacres with a golden tint soldespecially by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone);the pink nacres sold especially by the company BASF under the name Tanopale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a golden tint soldespecially by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB(Timica); the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under thename Matte blue (17433) (Microna); the white nacres with a silvery tintsold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; andthe golden-green pinkish-orange nacres sold especially by the companyMerck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Among the particles with a metallic glint, mention may be madeespecially of:

-   -   particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal        derivative,    -   particles comprising a single-material or multi-material organic        or inorganic substrate, at least partially coated with at least        one layer with a metallic glint comprising at least one metal        and/or at least one metal derivative, and    -   mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may bemade, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt,Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au,Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for examplebronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term “metal derivatives” is intended to denote compounds derivedfrom metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

Illustrations of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminiumparticles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by thecompany Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart.

Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or of alloy mixturessuch as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallicpigments, for instance aluminium or bronze, such as those sold under thenames Rotosafe 700 from the company Eckart, silica-coated aluminiumparticles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver from the companyEckart, and metal alloy particles, for instance the silica-coated bronze(alloy of copper and zinc) powders sold under the name Visionaire BrightNatural Gold from the company Eckart.

They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as thosesold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under then names MicroglassMetashine, Xirona from the company Merck, Ronastar from the companyMerck, Reflecks from the company BASF and Mirage from the company BASF.

The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, frommultilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may beused in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are,for example, the following structures: Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al, pigmentshaving this structure being sold by the company DuPont de Nemours;Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under thename Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃, and Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃, pigmentshaving these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by thecompany BASF; MoS₂/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; TiO₂/SiO₂MO₂ and TiO₂/Al₂O₃/TiO₂;SnO/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/SnO; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;SnO/mica/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/mica/SnO, pigments having these structures beingsold under the name Xirona by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way ofexample, these pigments may be the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/tinoxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck,the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the nameXirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments ofsilica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the nameXirona Caribbean Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made ofthe Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Differenteffects are obtained depending on the thickness and the nature of thevarious layers. Thus, with the Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ structure, thecolour changes from greenish gold to reddish grey for SiO₂ layers of 320to 350 nm; from red to gold for SiO₂ layers of 380 to 400 nm; fromviolet to green for SiO₂ layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red forSiO₂ layers of 430 to 440 nm.

Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure that may bementioned include those sold by the company 3M under the name ColorGlitter. Mention may also be made of the flakes resulting from apolymeric multilayer structure: Disco from the company Glitterex andMicroglitter from the company Venture Chemical.

Fillers

A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise atleast one filler of organic or mineral nature.

The term “filler” should be understood to mean colourless or white solidparticles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble anddispersed in the medium of the composition. They are mineral or organicin nature and make it possible to confer softness and mattness on thecomposition and a uniform makeup result.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present inventionmay be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres orin any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated,and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, aminoacids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes thedispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Among the mineral fillers that can be used in the compositions accordingto the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethylsiloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogencarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres(Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules,silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200 or Aerosil 300; SunsphereH-33 and Sunsphere H-51 sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen sold by AsahiChemical; composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, for instance theTSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof.

A filler suitable for the invention may preferentially be calciumcarbonate.

Among the organic fillers that can be used in the compositions accordingto the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon®Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders,polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyllysine, starch,tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, suchas EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), metal soaps derived from organiccarboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate orlithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200(Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® fromToshiba, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular powders ofcrosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymercomprising trimethylol hexyllactone, for instance the hexamethylenediisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer sold under the namePlastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki,carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare350® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such asthe product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MicroPowders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and ofpolyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300® and310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixtureof carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under thename MicroCare 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylenemicrowaxes, such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®,220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders; and mixtutres thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition also comprisesat least one soft-focus agent. Preferably, in this case, it wil be ananhydrous composition.

Soft-Focus Agent

The term “soft-focus agent” according to the invention is understood tomean an agent intended to give greater transparency to the complexionand a soft-focus effect. In particular, the soft-focus agent enables thecomposition that contains it to reduce, via an optical effect, the skinmicrorelief, and in particular skin defects such as marks, wrinkles andfine lines.

This agent may especially be chosen from inorganic fillers, organicfillers, composite colouring agents, silicone elastomers, and mixturesthereof.

The soft-focus agents that can be used in the composition according tothe invention may especially comprise or be constituted of particleshaving a number-average size of less than or equal to 15 μm, especiallyless than or equal to 10 μm, in particular less than or equal to 7.5 μm,or even less than or equal to 5 μm, for example between 1 μm and 5 μm.

The term “number-average size” denotes the dimension given bystatistical particle size distribution for half the population, referredto as D50.

These particles may be in any form and in particular may be spherical ornon-spherical.

The soft-focus agents according to the invention may be of any chemicalnature as long as they are compatible with a cosmetic use and they donot adversely affect the anticipated properties of the composition.

They may thus be chosen from silica and silicate powders, especiallyalumina powder, powders of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type, talc,silica/TiO₂ or silica/zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders,starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene/acrylic copolymer powders andsilicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the soft-focus agent is chosen frompolytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnaubamicrowaxes, synthetic wax microwaxes, silicone resin powders, hollowhemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders, expandedvinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate microspheres,polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least oneethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, crosslinked elastomericorganopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanepowders coated with silicone resin, polyamide powders, powders of silicaand silicates, especially of alumina, talc having a number-average sizeof less than or equal to 3 microns, silica/TiO2 composites, bariumsulphate particles, boron nitride particles, silica particlessurface-treated with an inorganic wax at 1 to 2%, amorphous silicamicrospheres, silica microbeads, talc/TiO₂/alumina/silica compositepowders, sericite/TiO₂/brown iron oxide/silica composite pigments,silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the soft-focus agent is chosen from a sericite/TiO₂/browniron oxide/silica composite pigment, a polyurethane powder, a siliconeelastomer, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of soft-focus fillers, composite colouring agents and siliconeelastomers are given below.

Soft-Focus Fillers

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the inventionmay comprise a filler as a soft-focus agent.

In particular, the soft-focus agent is a filler chosen frompolytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnaubamicrowaxes, synthetic wax microwaxes, silicone resin powders, hollowhemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders,vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate expanded microspheres,polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least oneethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, crosslinked elastomericorganopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanepowders coated with silicone resin, polyamide powders, powders of silicaand silicates, especially of alumina, talc having a number-average sizeof less than or equal to 3 microns, silica/TiO2 composites, bariumsulphate particles, boron nitride particles, silica particlessurface-treated with an inorganic wax at 1 to 2%, amorphous silicamicrospheres, silica microbeads, talc/TiO₂/alumina/silica compositepowders, for instance those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80® andmixtures thereof.

As soft-focus fillers that can be used according to the invention,mention may especially be made of:

a) organic fillers such as

-   -   polytetrafluoroethylene powders, for instance the PTFEs Ceridust        9205F® from Clariant having an average size of 8 μm;    -   polyurethane powders, such as powders of crosslinked        polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising        trimethylol hexyllactone, such as the hexamethylene        diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer sold under the        name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the        company Toshiki,    -   carnauba microwaxes such as the product sold under the name        MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, and synthetic wax        microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase        114S® by the company Micro Powders;    -   silicone resin powders, for instance the silicone resin Tospearl        145A® from GE Silicone, with an average size of 4.5 μm;    -   hollow hemispherical silicone particles, for instance NLK 500®,        NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat;    -   powders of acrylic copolymers, especially of        polymethyl(meth)acrylate, for instance the PMMA particles        Jurimer MBI® from Nihon Junyoki, with an average size of 8 μm,        the hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name Covabead LH85® by        the company Wackherr, the PMMA particles Ganzpearl GMP0820® from        the company Ganz Chemical and vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene        methacrylate expanded microspheres sold under the name        Expancel®;    -   polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one        ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of        ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers, for instance the particles        Flobeads EA 209® from Sumitomo (with an average size of 10 μm;    -   crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, such as Dow        Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder® from the company Dow Corning (INCI        name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer);    -   crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with        silicone resin, especially with silsesquioxane resin, as        described, for example, in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such        elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®,        KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company        Shin-Etsu;    -   polyamide powders, such as Nylon® 12 powder, especially the        product sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the        company Atochem;

b) inorganic fillers such as:

-   -   powders of silica and silicates, especially of alumina,    -   talc, in particular talc having a number-average size of less        than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc having a        number-average size of 1.8 microns and especially the product        sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc,    -   silica/TiO2 composites such as the composites NPT30K3TA from        Nippon Sheet Glass or STMCAS-152010 from Catalysts & Chemicals,        or silica/zinc oxide composites,    -   barium sulphate particles,    -   boron nitride particles,    -   silica particles surface-treated with an inorganic wax at 1 to        2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those        sold by the company Degussa,    -   amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name        Sunsphere, for example with the reference H-53®, by the company        Asahi Glass,    -   silica microbeads, such as those sold under the name SB-700® or        SB-150® by the company Miyoshi,    -   talc/TiO₂/alumina/silica composite powders such as those sold        under the name Coverleaf AR-80® by the company Catalyst &        Chemicals,        and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises atleast one soft-focus organic filler chosen from polytetrafluoroethylenepowders, polyurethane powders, silicone resin powders, hollowhemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders,polyethylene powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanepowders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated withsilicone resin, especially with silsesquioxane resin, polyamide powders,and mixtures thereof.

Soft-Focus Colouring Agent

According to another embodiment, the composition according to theinvention may comprise, as soft-focus agent, a soft-focus colouringagent, of composite type.

This colouring agent may comprise a pigment having a structure that maybe, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silicatype. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference CoverleafNS or JS or MF by the company Chemicals and Catalysts.

The colouring agent may also comprise a pigment having a structure thatmay be for example of the type of silica microspheres containing ironoxide, such as the product sold by the company Miyoshi under thereference PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of silicamicrospheres containing yellow iron oxide.

According to one preferred embodiment, use will be made of a compositecolouring agent having a structure of sericite/brown iron oxide/titaniumdioxide/silica type such as the product sold under the referenceCoverleaf MF by the company Chemicals and Catalysts.

Soft-Focus Silicone Elastomers

According to another embodiment, the composition according to theinvention may comprise, as soft-focus agent, at least one siliconeelastomer or elastomeric organopolysiloxane, preferably at leastpartially crosslinked.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used in the composition according tothe invention are preferably partially or completely crosslinked. Theyare in the form of particles. In particular, the elastomericorganopolysiloxane particles have a size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μm,preferably from 3 to 200 μm and better still from 3 to 50 μm. Theseparticles may have any form and may for example be spherical, flat oramorphous.

The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane may be obtained via acrosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom and of adiorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturatedgroups bonded to different silicon atoms, especially in the presence ofa platinum catalyst; or via a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensationreaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and adiorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen atom bonded to asilicon atom, especially in the presence of an organotin compound; orvia a crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminateddiorganopolysiloxane and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or viathermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presenceof an organoperoxide catalyst; or via crosslinking of organopolysiloxaneby high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or anelectron beam.

The elastomer obtained may be a non-emulsifying elastomer or anemulsifying elastomer.

The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that donot contain a hydrophilic chain. The term “emulsifying” meanscrosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers having at least onehydrophilic chain.

The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may be conveyedin the form of a gel constituted of an elastomeric organopolysiloxaneincluded in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil.In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-sphericalparticles.

The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may also be inthe form of a powder, especially in the form of a spherical powder, inparticular coated with silicone resin, especially with silsesquioxaneresin, as described for example in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,538,793. Suchelastomers are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103,KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu.

Other elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes in the form of powdersmay be powders of a hybrid silicone functionalized with fluoroalkylgroups, sold especially under the name KSP-200 by the company Shin-Etsu;or powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with phenyl groups, soldespecially under the name KSP-300 by the company Shin-Etsu.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the soft-focusagent is an emulsifying silicone elastomer, i.e. a partially orcompletely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane (siliconeelastomer), comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenatedsilicone elastomers.

The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinkedorganopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking additionreaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bondedto silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at least twoethylenically unsaturated groups.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane isobtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A1) ofdiorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to asilicon, and (B1) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least twoethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C1) of aplatinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patents U.S. Pat. No.5,236,986 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction ofdimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyoxyalkylene (especiallypolyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) and oftrimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of aplatinum catalyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may bealkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl,ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetylor stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl,tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; andsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group,a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

Compound (A1) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminatedmethylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers,dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, andtrimethylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane/laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers may be formedfrom divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes containing atleast two vinyl groups, reacting with Si—H bonds of a polysiloxane.

The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the invention isconveyed in the form of a gel in at least one hydrocarbon-based oiland/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomeris in the form of non-spherical particles.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in patents U.S.Pat. No. 5,236,986, U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 andU.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, the content of which is incorporated byreference.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be used include thosesold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33,KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340 and X-226146 by the companyShin-Etsu, and DC9010 and DC9011 by the company Dow Corning.

According to one preferred embodiment, use is made of thepolyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer sold under the reference KSG-210by the company Shin-Etsu.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen frompolyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked elastomericorganopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking additionreaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bondedto silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds containing ethylenicallyunsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtainedby a crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxanecontaining at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) ofglycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturatedgroups, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of adimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerolated compound and oftrimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of aplatinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base reactant for the formation of elastomericorganopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking takes place via an additionreaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of thecatalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chainor branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may bealkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl,ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetylor stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl,tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; andsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group,a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organicgroup is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

Compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminatedmethylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers,dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, andtrimethylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane/laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to formula(B′) below:C_(m)H_(2m-1)—O-[Gly]n-C_(m)H_(2m-1)  (B′)

in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer rangingfrom 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from2 to 50, preferably n ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equalto 3; Gly denotes:—CH₂—CH(OH)—CH₂—O— or —CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O—

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to siliconatoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least 4.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such thatthe molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all theethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the rangefrom 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A) and (B).

The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention isgenerally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or onesilicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerolatedelastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

Such elastomers are described especially in patent application WO2004/024798.

Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers that may be used include those soldunder the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 and KSG-840 by thecompany Shin-Etsu.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention comprises at least one non-emulsifying, non-spherical siliconeelastomer mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or onesilicone oil to form a gel.

According to one preferred embodiment, use is made of thepolyglycerolated silicone elastomer sold under the reference KSG-710 bythe company Shin-Etsu.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the soft-focus agentused is a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

The term “non-emulsifying” silicone elastomers means organopolysiloxaneelastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, such aspolyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.

The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinkedorganopolysiloxane which may be obtained via a crosslinking additionreaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bondedto silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenicallyunsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of aplatinum catalyst; or via a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensationreaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and adiorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon,especially in the presence of an organotin compound; or via acrosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminateddiorganopolysiloxane and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or viathermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presenceof an organoperoxide catalyst; or via crosslinking of organopolysiloxaneby high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or anelectron beam.

Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtainedby a crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of a diorganopolysiloxanecontaining at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) ofa diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturatedgroups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C2) of a platinumcatalyst, for instance as described in patent application EP-A-295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction ofdimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and oftrimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of aplatinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base reactant for the formation of an elastomericorganopolysiloxane and the crosslinking takes place via an additionreaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of thecatalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast two lower (for example of C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenylgroup may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These loweralkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxanemolecule, but are preferably located at the ends of theorganopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have abranched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure, but thelinear chain structure is preferred. Compound (A2) may have a viscosityranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound(A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25° C.

The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes,methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers,dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes,dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxanecopolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers,trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxanecopolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers,dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminatedmethyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, anddimethylvinylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane/methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers.

Compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus thecrosslinking agent for compound (A2).

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon permolecule in compound (B2) is at least 4.

Compound (B2) may be in any molecular structure, especially in a linearchain, branched chain or cyclic structure.

Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (A).

It is advantageous for compound (B2) to be added in an amount such thatthe molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all the ethylenicallyunsaturated groups in compound (A2) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (B2) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminatedmethylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers anddimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A2) and (B2).

Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes(A2) and (B2) described previously, for instance alkyl groups such asmethyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups suchas phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl;and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxygroup, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

According to one preferred embodiment, the non-emulsifying siliconeelastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/orsilicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomeris in the form of non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those sold under thenames KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-41,KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-105 and USG-106 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040, DC9041, DC9045, DC 9509, DC9505 DC 9506, DC5930, DC9350, DC9045and DC9043 by the company Dow Corning, Gransil by the company GrantIndustries, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

According to one preferred embodiment, use will be made, asnon-emulsifying elastomer, of the product sold under the referenceDC9045 by the company Dow Corning.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may containat least two soft-focus agents chosen from polyurethane powders,silicone elastomers, composite colouring agents, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may contain anemulsifying silicone elastomer and a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

Depending on the nature of the soft-focus agent, a person skilled in theart will adjust its content in the composition in order to obtain thedesired effect.

By way of example, the soft-focus filler may be present in thecomposition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to80% by weight and especially ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition, especially between 5% and 30%,for example of the order of 8%.

The soft-focus colouring agent may be present in the compositionaccording to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% byweight and especially ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition, especially between 5% and 15%, forexample of the order of 8%.

The soft-focus silicone elastomer may be present in the compositionaccording to the invention in a content of active material ranging from0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 7% by weight andmore preferentially ranging from 3% to 6% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

Additives

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, inaddition, any additive usually used in the field concerned, chosen, forexample, from film-forming agents, and where appropriate auxiliaryfilm-forming agents, gums, semicrystalline polymers, antioxidants,vitamins, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers,antiseptic agents and UV protection agents, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention may especially be in the formof a product for caring for and/or making up the skin, in particular theskin of the body or of the face.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention mayadvantageously be in the form of a foundation or a complexion corrector.

A composition of the invention may be obtained via any preparationprocess known to those skilled in the art.

The present invention will be understood more clearly by means of theexamples that follow.

These examples are given as illustrations of the invention and shouldnot be interpreted as limiting the scope thereof.

The values are expressed as % by weight.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Cream (W/O Emulsion)

1A 1B 1C (compar- (inven- (inven- ative) tion) tion) Water 36.9 35.33533.6 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (Dow 27.4 25.9 24.57 Corning 245 Fluidfrom Dow Corning) Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl 9 8.55 8.1dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE09 by the company Goldschmidt Ethanol 5 4.75 4.5 Glycerol 5 4.75 4.5Isododecane 5 4.75 4.5 Mixture of polydiphenyl- 4 3.8 3.6dimethylsiloxane (gum- viscosity >1000000 cSt-MW: 600000) and ofcyclopentadimethylsiloxane (15/85) sold under the name Silbione byBluestar Phenyl trimethicone 1.6 1.37 1.14Distearyldimethylammonium-modified 1.2 1.14 1.08 hectorite (Bentone 38VCG from Elementis) Corn starch esterified with 1 0.95 0.9octenylsuccinic anhydride, aluminium salt (Dry Flo Plus from Akzo Nobel)Protected 2-ethylhexyl 4- 1 0.95 0.9 methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX fromDSM Nutritional Products) Magnesium sulphate 0.7 0.665 0.63 Preservingagents 0.7 0.665 0.63 Cellulose gum 0.5 0.475 0.45 Tristearin andacetylated glycol stearate 0.5 0.475 0.45 Expanded vinylidene chloride/0.3 0.285 0.27 acrylonitrile/PMMA microspheres containing isobutane(Expancel 551 from Expancel) Nylon-12 0.2 0.19 0.18 Dispersion ofbismuth oxychloride in 2- 0 5 10 ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (70:30)(Timiron Liquid Silver ®) from Merck

Procedure:

The dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate isintroduced into the fatty phase. The aqueous phase is prepared, then,using a Rayneri mixer equipped with a deflocculator, the emulsion isproduced, with vigorous stirring and at room temperature.

Makeup Evaluation:

The compositions are applied to several panels of 10 women aged from 25to 55 years old. The evaluations are made by making up the faces of saidwomen (self-evaluations, evaluations by the formulators, evaluation byaestheticians). The formulae are therefore compared with one anotherregarding the criteria of makeup effect and especially the luminosity.

The formulae containing the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate are evaluated as being more luminous thanthe formulae that do not contain this ingredient. Indeed, the formulaecontaining the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexylhydroxystearate reflect the light more, in a uniform and continuousmanner.

This luminous effect is intensified with the increase in the amount ofthis ingredient in the formulae.

Example 2 Concealer for Masking Visible Unevenness of the Face

2F 2E 2D (inven- (inven- (compar- Name tion) tion) ative) Magnesiumsulphate 0.6 0.6 0.6 Distearyldimethylammonium-modified 0.6 0.6 0.6hectorite (Bentone 38 VCG from Elementis) Vinylidenechloride/acrylonitrile/PMMA 0.4 0.4 0.4 microspheres expanded withisobutane (Expancel 551 from Expancel) Phenyl trimethicone 1.2 1.2 1.2Preserving agents 2.18 2.18 2.18 Pigments: Yellow, red and black iron 37.2 11.34 oxides coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate and anatasetitanium oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate (referencesNAI-C33-9001-10 NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10 and NAI-TAO-77891 fromthe company Miyoshi Kasei) Deodorized isodecyl neopentanoate 1.2 1.2 1.2Dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2- 15 10.8 0 ethylhexylhydroxystearate (70:30) (Timiron Liquid Silver ®) from MerckHydrogenated isoparaffin (6-8 mol of 10 10 10 isobutylene) (Parleam fromNof Corporation) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (Dow 14.5 14.5 18 Corning245 Fluid from Dow Corning) Water 38.32 37.32 40.48 Glycerol 5 5 5Propylene glycol 3 3 3 Sorbitan monoisostearate (Arlacel 987 5 6 6 fromCroda)

Procedure:

The procedure described in Example 1 is followed.

Makeup Evaluation:

The makeup result of the compositions is evaluated as described inExample 1.

The formulae containing the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate are evaluated as being more luminous thanthe formulae that do not contain this ingredient: they reflect the lightmore, in a uniform and continuous manner.

This luminous effect is intensified with the increase in the amount ofthis ingredient in the formulae.

Example 3 Pigmented Emulsion

3H 3G Name (invention) (comparative) Magnesium sulphate 1 1 Glycerylesters of plant, isostearic and 0.2 0.2 adipic fatty acids (Softisan 649from Sasol) Pigments: Yellow, red and black iron 11 11 oxides coatedwith aluminium stearoyl glutamate and anatase titanium oxide coated withaluminium stearoyl glutamate (references NAI-C33-9001-10NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10 and NAI-TAO-77891 from the companyMiyoshi Kasei) Preserving agents 1.25 1.25 Protected 2-ethylhexyl 4- 5 5methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX from DSM Nutritional Products) Nacres 0.040.44 HDI/Trimethylol hexyllactone 5 5 crosspolymer Dispersion of bismuthoxychloride in 2- 0.5 0 ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (70:30) (TimironLiquid Silver ®) from Merck Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (Dow 15 15Corning 245 Fluid from Dow Corning) Phenyl trimethicone 1 1 Dimethicone5 5 Oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane 2.5 2.5 (DP: 70-Viscosity: 500cSt) Dimethicone and 9 9 dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymerDimethicone and 7.65 7.65 dimethicone/PEG10/15 crosspolymer Glycerol 7 7Water 26.86 26.96 Propylene glycol 1 1 Pentylene glycol 1 1

Procedure:

The procedure described in Example 1 is followed.

Makeup Evaluation:

The makeup result of the compositions is evaluated as described inExample 1.

The formulae containing the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate are evaluated as being more luminous thanthe formulae that do not contain this ingredient: they reflect the lightmore, in a uniform and continuous manner.

Said formula containing the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate is lighter in colour and gives greatercoverage. It imparts more radiance to the face with a slightly moresatiny look. It is also more unifying in terms of colour and smoothesout the relief more.

Example 4 W/Si Emulsion

4A 4B 4C (comparative) (invention) (invention) HYDROGENATED MALTOSESOLUTION 0.5 0.47 0.45 TALC: MICRONIZED MAGNESIUM SILICATE 0.5 0.47 0.45(PARTICLE SIZE: 5 MICRONS) (CI: 77718) REFINED PLANT PERHYDROSQUALENE 10.95 0.9 YELLOW IRON OXIDE COATED WITH 1.63 1.45 ALUMINIUM STEAROYLGLUTAMATE (3%) NAI- 1.55 C33-9001-10 from MIYOSHI KASEI RED IRON OXIDECOATED WITH ALUMINIUM 0.29 0.261 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (3%) NAI-C33-B001-10from 0.27 MIYOSHI KASEI BLACK IRON OXIDE COATED WITH ALUMINIUM 0.13 0.12STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (3%) NAI-C33-7001-10 from 0.12 MIYOSHI KASEI ANATASETITANIUM OXIDE COATED WITH 9.95 8.95 ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (97/3)(CI: 9.45 77891) (NAI-TAO-77891 from MIYOSHI KASEI) POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANECONTAINING 1 0.9 ALPHA,OMEGA- OXYETHYLENATED/OXYPROPYLENATED 0.95 GROUPSIN SOLUTION IN CYCLOPENTASILOXANE ABIL EM 97 ® from Evonik GoldschmidtPhenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane (viscosity: 20 cSt - 2 1.8 MW: 372) DOWCORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE 1.9 FLUID from Dow Corning OXYETHYLENATEDPOLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE 2 1.8 (DP: 70 - VISCOSITY: 500 cSt) KF 6017 ® from1.9 Shin-Etsu STABILIZED (0.1% BHT) 2-ETHYLHEXYL P- 3 2.7 METHOXY-4CINNAMATE PARSOL MCX XR from DSM 2.85 NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Dispersion ofbismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl 0 10 hydroxystearate (70:30)(Timiron Liquid Silver ®) 5 from Merck NYLON-12 MICROSPHERES (PARTICLESIZE: 5 0.5 0.45 MICRONS) 0.475 DENATURED 96° ETHYL ALCOHOL 13 12.3511.7 1,3-BUTYLENE GLYCOL 3 2.85 2.7 MAGNESIUM SULPHATE 0.7 0.66 0.63MICROBIOLOGICALLY CLEAN DEIONIZED 36.15 32.53 WATER 34.34CYCLOPENTADIMETHYLSILOXANE (DOW CORNING qs 100 qs 100 245 FLUID ® fromDow Corning) qs 100

Procedure:

The dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate isintroduced into the fatty phase. The aqueous phase is prepared, then,using a Rayneri mixer equipped with a deflocculator, the emulsion isproduced, with vigorous stirring and at room temperature. Next, withmoderate stirring, the alcohol is introduced.

Makeup Evaluation:

The compositions are applied to panels of 10 women aged from 25 to 55years old having combination to oily skin. The evaluations are made bymaking up the faces of said women (self-evaluations, evaluations by theformulators, evaluation by aestheticians). The formulae are thereforecompared with one another regarding the criteria of makeup effect andespecially the luminosity.

The formulae containing the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate are evaluated as being more luminous thanthe formula that does not contain this ingredient. Indeed, the formulaecontaining the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexylhydroxystearate reflect the light more, in a uniform and continuousmanner. This luminous effect is intensified with the increase in theamount of this ingredient in the formulae.

Furthermore, the fluid texture penetrates, leaving a soft and silkyfeeling on the fingers, for a discreet/natural makeup look. Thecomplexion is luminous and unified and small colour imperfections(redness, shadows under the eyes) are reduced. The foundation capturesthe light to give an impression of relaxed skin.

Example 5 Water/Si Emulsion

5D 5E (comparative) (invention) SODIUM CHLORIDE 1 1 DENATURED 96° ETHYLALCOHOL 5 5 YELLOW IRON OXIDE COATED WITH 1.87 1.87 PERFLUOROALKYLPHOSPHATE (95/5) PFX-5 SUNPURO YELLOW C33-9001 from DAITO KASEI KOGYOBLACK IRON OXIDE COATED WITH 0.26 0.26 PERFLUOROALKYL PHOSPHATE (95/5)PFX-5 SUNPURO BLACK C33-7001 from DAITO KASEI KOGYO RED IRON OXIDECOATED WITH PERFLUOROALKYL 0.63 0.63 PHOSPHATE (95/5) PFX-5 SUNPURO REDC33-8001 from DAITO KASEI KOGYO ANATASE TITANIUM OXIDE COATED WITH 8.248.24 PERFLUOROALKYL PHOSPHATE (95/5) (CI: 77891) PF 5 TIO2 A 100 fromDAITO KASEI KOGYO Polyglycerolated emulsifying silicone elastomer at 25%7 7 by weight in polydimethylsiloxane(6 cSt) (KSG 710 from Shin-Etsu)OXYETHYLENATED POLYMETHYLISOSTEARYL 2 2 DIMETHYL METHYL SILOXANE (MW: 6000) KF6028 from Shin-Etsu POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE (VISCOSITY: 5 cSt) DOW2.5 2.5 CORNING 200 FLUID 5 CST from Dow CorningETHYLENEDIAMINETETRAACETIC ACID, DISODIUM 0.2 0.2 SALT, 2 H₂O STABILIZED(0.1% BHT) 2-ETHYLHEXYL P-METHOXY- 3 3 4 CINNAMATE PARSOL MCX XR fromDSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl 0 1 hydroxystearate (70:30) (Timiron Liquid Silver ®) fromMerck preserving agents 0.5 0.5 GLYCEROL 5.5 5.5 MICROBIOLOGICALLY CLEANDEIONIZED WATER 42.89 42.89 CYCLOPENTADIMETHYLSILOXANE (DOW CORNING qs100 qs 100 245 FLUID ® from Dow Corning)

Procedure:

The procedure described in Example 1 is followed.

Makeup Evaluation

The compositions are applied to panels of 10 women aged from 25 to 55years old having combination to oily skin. The evaluations are made bymaking up the faces of said women (self-evaluations, evaluations by theformulators, evaluation by aestheticians). The formulae are thereforecompared with one another regarding the criteria of makeup effect andespecially the luminosity.

The formula containing the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate is evaluated as being more luminous thanthe formula that does not contain this ingredient. Indeed, thecomposition according to the invention reflects the light more, in auniform and continuous manner.

Example 6 Colourless Anhydrous Gel

6A 6B (invention) (comparative) Crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane (12%)67 67 in cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (Dow Corning 9045 Silicone ElastomerBlend from Dow Corning) Dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 7 02-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (70:30) (Timiron Liquid Silver ®) fromMerck Bismuth oxychloride (CI: 77163) 0 4.9 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane(Dow 26 28.1 Corning 245 Fluid from Dow Corning) TOTAL 100 100

Procedure:

The dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate isintroduced into the anhydrous mixture with moderate stirring.

Makeup Evaluation

The compositions are applied to half the face and the makeup result isevaluated. The composition according to the invention comprising thedispersion of bismuth oxychloride in combination with thenon-emulsifying silicone elastomer is more luminous than the(comparative) composition comprising conventional bismuth oxychloride:the composition according to the invention reflects the light more, in auniform and continuous manner. The complexion appears younger, with moreradiance after application of the composition according to theinvention, compared to the duller complexion observed with thecomparative composition.

Example 7 Coloured Anhydrous Gel

7C 7D (inven- (compar- tion) ative) YELLOW IRON OXIDE COATED WITH 0.4680.52 ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (3%) NAI-C33-9001-10 from MIYOSHIKASEI RED IRON OXIDE COATED WITH 0.153 0.17 ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE(3%) NAI-C33-8001-10 from MIYOSHI KASEI BLACK IRON OXIDE COATED WITH0.063 0.07 ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (3%) NAI-C33-7001-10 fromMIYOSHI KASEI ANATASE TITANIUM OXIDE COATED WITH 4.716 5.24 ALUMINIUMSTEAROYL GLUTAMATE (97/3) (CI: 77891) (NAI-TAO-77891 from MIYOSHI KASEI)Crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane (12%) in 61.2 68cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (Dow Corning 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blendfrom Dow Corning) STABILIZED (0.1% BHT) 2-ETHYLHEXYL 1.8 2 P-METHOXY-4CINNAMATE Dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl 10 0hydroxystearate (70:30) (Timiron Liquid Silver ®) from MerckCYCLOPENTADIMETHYLSILOXANE (Dow qs 100 qs 100 Corning 245 Fluid from DowCorning)

Procedure:

The dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate isintroduced into the anhydrous mixture comprising the pigments, withmoderate stirring.

Makeup Evaluation

The compositions are applied to half the face and the makeup result isevaluated. The composition according to the invention comprising thedispersion of bismuth oxychloride in combination with thenon-emulsifying silicone elastomer is more luminous than the(comparative) composition that does not contain the dispersion ofbismuth oxychloride: the composition according to the invention reflectsthe light more, in a uniform and continuous manner. The complexionappears younger, with more radiance after application of the compositionaccording to the invention, compared to the duller complexion observedwith the comparative composition.

Example 8 Coloured Emulsion

8E 8F (invention) (comparative) MAGNESIUM SULPHATE, 7 H₂O 0.999180.99918 Microbiologically clean deionized water 26.818155 26.818155 Micatreated with TiO₂ + iron oxide, iron/TiO₂, and 1 1 alumina (10 MICRONS)(65.2/33.5/1.0/0.3 w/w %) Coverleaf MF from Catalyst Chemical YELLOWIRON OXIDE COATED WITH ALUMINIUM 1.056 1.056 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (3%)NAI-C33-9001-10 from MIYOSHI KASEI RED IRON OXIDE COATED WITH ALUMINIUM0.161 0.161 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (3%) NAI-C33-8001-10 from MIYOSHI KASEIBLACK IRON OXIDE COATED WITH ALUMINIUM 0.048 0.048 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE(3%) ANATASE TITANIUM OXIDE COATED WITH 9.093 9.093 ALUMINIUM STEAROYLGLUTAMATE (97/3) (CI: 77891) PRESERVATIVES 0.8 0.8 DIMETHICONE (and)DIMETHICONE/POLYGLYCERIN-3 CROSSPOLYMER 7.65 7.65 (KSG710 fromShin-Etsu) MIXTURE OF CROSSLINKED POLYALKYLENATED 9 9POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE AND OF POLYDIMETHYL- SILOXANE (6 cSt) 27/73 (KSG210from Shin-Etsu) Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 cSt) DOW CORNING 5 5200 FLUID 5 CST from Dow Corning CYCLOPENTADIMETHYLSILOXANE (Dow Corning14.15 15.15 245 Fluid from Dow Corning) OXYETHYLENATEDPOLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE 2.5 2.5 (DP: 70 - VISCOSITY: 500 cSt) KF6017 fromShin-Etsu STABILIZED (0.1% BHT) 2-ETHYLHEXYL 5 5 P-METHOXY-4 CINNAMATEDispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl 1 0 hydroxystearate(70:30) (Timiron Liquid Silver ®) from Merck Nacres 0.3 0.3 POWDER OFHEXAMETHYLENE DIISOCYANATE/ 5 5 TRIMETHYLOL HEXYLLACTONE COPOLYMERCONTAINING SILICA (98/2) (SIZE: 10-15 MICRONS (PLASTIC POWDER D 400 fromToshiki Pigment) PROPYLENE GLYCOL 1 1 GLYCEROL 7 7CYCLOPENTADIMETHYLSILOXANE qs 100 qs 100

Procedure:

The dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate isintroduced into the fatty phase; the aqueous phase is prepared; and theemulsion is produced by introducing the aqueous phase into the oilyphase, using a Rayneri mixer equipped with a deflocculator for thestirring, at room temperature.

Makeup Evaluation

The compositions are applied to half the face and the makeup result isevaluated. The composition according to the invention comprising thedispersion of bismuth oxychloride is more luminous than the compositionthat does not contain it: the composition according to the inventionreflects the light more, in a uniform and continuous manner. Thecomplexion appears younger, with more radiance after application of thecomposition according to the invention, compared to the dullercomplexion observed with the comparative composition.

Example 9 Pigmented Water-in-Oil Emulsion

The following composition was prepared and its effect was evaluatedafter application to the models' skin.

Talc  0.5% Titanium dioxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate 7.0% Composite pigment (titanium dioxide/FD&C Blue 1 Al lake) ⁽¹⁾  0.1%Composite pigment (titanium dioxide/Red No.28 lake/ Red 7) ⁽²⁾ 0.05%Yellow, red and black iron oxides respectively coated with  4.0%aluminium stearoyl glutamate Pre-dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxy-  3.0% stearate (70:30) (Biron ® Liquid Silver fromMerck) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (Dow Corning 245 Fluid) 22.5% Phenyltrimethicone  5.0% BIS-PEG/PPG-14/14 DIMETHICONE (and)  1.2%CYCLOPENTASILOXANE ⁽³⁾ PEG-10 DIMETHICONE ⁽⁴⁾  2.3% DIMETHICONE (and)DIMETHICONE/  3.0% POLYGLYCERIN-3 CROSSPOLYMER ⁽⁵⁾ Denatured ethylalcohol  9.0% Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100% ⁽¹⁾Composite pigment constituted of an inorganic core of titanium dioxidehaving an average size of 20 nm and having a specific surface area of 50m²/g, an organic lake with the name FD&C Blue 1 Al lake, and producedwith a polymethylhydrosiloxane binder (proportions 58.1/40.7/1.2) ⁽²⁾Composite pigment constituted of an inorganic core of titanium dioxidehaving an average size of 20 nm and having a specific surface area of 50m²/g, an organic lake with the name Red No. 28 lake and organic pigmentRed 7, and produced with a polymethylhydrosiloxane binder ⁽³⁾ ABIL EM 97from Evonik Goldschmidt ⁽⁴⁾ KF 6017 from Shin-Etsu ⁽⁵⁾ ⁽³⁾ KSG710 fromShin-Etsu

Procedure

Introduce all the raw materials except the ethyl alcohol, at roomtemperature, into a stainless steel beaker.

Roughly mix using a spatula. Mix at high speed (3000 rpm) using a Moritzmixer (small rotor-agitator) until an emulsion is obtained (8 min). Thenadd the ethyl alcohol and maintain the same stirring for an additional 2to 3 min.

After application to the skin, and compared to bare skin, thecomposition of the invention improves the light, the uniformity and thefineness of the grain of the skin with an advantageous healthy gloweffect. The bismuth oxychloride dispersed in the 2-ethylhexylhydroxystearate provides a complexion correcting and unifying effect andalso a light-reflecting effect; the composite pigments provide adesaturating effect, an anti-dull complexion colour-correcting effect.

The complexion regains its natural luminosity, with a makeup result thatdoes not mark the features. The composition enables the skin to reflectthe light more, in a uniform and continuous manner. The complexionappears younger, with more radiance after application of the compositionaccording to the invention, compared to bare skin.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A cosmetic method, comprising: applying acomposition to skin; forming a coating of the composition on the skin asa make-up or a care treatment; and retaining the coating on the skin toreduce surface unevenness and obtain diffuse and continuous lightreflection over the skin without shine; wherein the composition is anemulsion, comprising: in a physiologically acceptable medium: from 20 to60 by weight of an aqueous phase; from 5 to 20% by weight of amonoalcohol having 2 to 8 atoms; a dispersion of bismuth oxychloride in2-ethylhexyl hydroxysearate; and a phenyl silicone oil having arefractive index of greater than 1.42 and a vapour pressure at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure that is non-zero and is less than0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa); wherein the phenyl silicone oil is one selectedfrom the phenyl silicones of forn a (VII):

wherein R1 to R6, are each independently saturated or unsaturated,linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and m, nand p are each independently integers between 0 and 100, with theproviso that the sum n±m is between 1 and
 100. 2. The method of claim 1,wherein a weight ratio of bismuth oxychloride/2-ethylhexylhydroxystearate is from 2 to
 3. 3. The method of claim 1, wherein atotal content of the bismuth oxychloride and the phenyl silicone oil isfrom 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to a total weight of thecomposition.
 4. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is oneselected from the group consisting of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, awater-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, and a multiple emulsion.
 5. The method ofclaim 4, wherein the composition is a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. 6.The method of claim 1, wherein R1 to R6 are each independently asaturated linear or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical.
 7. Themethod of claim 1, wherein R1 to R6 are each independently a saturatedlinear or branched C₁-C₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radical.
 8. The method ofclaim 1, wherein R1 to R6 are each independently a methyl, ethyl, propylor butyl radical.
 9. The method of claim 1, wherein m is 1, 2 or
 3. 10.The method of claim 1, wherein n is
 0. 11. The method of claim 1,wherein p is 0 or 1.